#1
Could you link the shop so I can use the exact prices?
Have you considered ordering from multiple shops, it might be cheaper.
Also stay away from the Corsair VS series.
What are you going to be using the PC for?

#4
Why would you avoid ASRock?
Ah, the 4460K. Do you mean the i3-4460K, i5-4460K or i7-4460K? They are what I call "existencially challenged". They are very hard to obtain due to not existing.

#5
What do you think he's going to upgrade to that calls for a 550W PSU?

#10
Source on WD vs Seagate failure rates?
Source on ASRock failure rates?

#621
Why does this sound so much like an assignment to me?

I'm not sure what you expect, it's business as usual. Slightly lower overclocks and no Hyperthreading on the i5. The only advantage is obviously the price.

Alternatives same as always.
Don't need overclocking -> Non-K
Can't benefit from HT -> i5
Can benefit from HT but 90-95% of the performance of a non-oc'd i7 is fine -> Xeon

The only things that have changed is the lower end of high-end and the absolute high end short of LGA2011.
Lower non-K SKUs might be an alternative, depending on how well Skylake does with BCLK overclocking.

On the high end if you don't want/need DDR4 and the rest of the LGA1151 swag and live near a microcenter just forget about the 6700K. You can get an i7-4790K and a Z87-A for less than just the i7-6700K.

#622
i5 vs i5 there's really not much of a difference. So unless you suddenly absolutely need an overclocked i7 I wouldn't upgrade.
Just overclock the i5-3570K if you haven't done so already.

You'll have to decide what you're basing your decision on. Performance only or Price to Performance ratio.

I'll also need to know which model "your current i5" is.

Why not
http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-XL2411Z-24-Inch-LED-Monitor/dp/B00ITORITU/ref=sr_1_1/184-7771456-3069453?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1441745336&sr=1-1

Didn't see the edit with the 260X, asking for the 750 Ti's price was unnecessary, sorry.

I'm 83% sure I can somehow manage. Just give me the real budget and links to the shop(s) you'll be buying from or a price comparision site.

So did you already buy PSU and case or not? Even if they are part of the budget I still can't see the problem.
Your revised specs + 119$ for a 260X = 405$.

I'll be doing some benchmarks soon-ish to figure out how much more cores/HT really do for TF2.

You've already got the RAM but you don't know if it's 4 or 8GB?
It'll be difficult to hit the budget if you don't tell me the price of the 750 Ti.
What about case and PSU?

I was thinking about something like this:
OC:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor ($63.00 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper T4 70.0 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler ($14.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z87-A (NFC Express Edition) ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($59.00 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R7 260X 2GB Video Card ($78.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 430W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $235.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-09-06 07:44 EDT-0400

No OC:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-4370 3.8GHz Dual-Core Processor ($134.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus Z87-A (NFC Express Edition) ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($59.00 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R7 260X 2GB Video Card ($78.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 430W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $292.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-09-06 07:45 EDT-0400

H97M Anniversary if you want µATX.

The i3-6320 or lower should be an alternative once they become available.

Q4

http://blog-imgs-80.fc2.com/n/o/r/northwood/1507_D_OL33863.png

#608
Budget?
I would advise against the 750 Ti, there's a lot of AMD cards (260X, 265, 270, 270X, 370) with better performance that are cheaper and for TF2 you could even get away with less. So just use whatever's left of the budget.
Also don't get the VS450. It's ancient and doesn't even pass basic 80 Plus, let alone Bronze which is the minimum today.

And there's new CPUs now.

#609
They have been launched but availability isn't great yet.
Intel also refuses to send out review samples of anything other than the i7-6700K and i5-6600K so there's no reviews yet.

Even wikipedia has the answers, but you have to know what you're looking for.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thunderbolt_%28interface%29

So what you want is a Mini DisplayPort (MDP) to DVI Dual Link. They exist and you can get one for about 10€. Unless of course you prefer the Apple variant for 120€.
You only have to pay attention to it being Dual Link, since you want 120Hz. DVI-D or DVI-I doesn't matter.

While what you said is correct newer HDDs (newer as in not 8 years old) do that automatically.
Also if a SSD slows down drastically DO NOT REBOOT. Do a S.M.A.R.T. test or copy your data right away just to be sure. Good SSDs slow down on purpose before they are dying. Ideally they would enter read-only mode. It means that controller thinks it can not guarantee the SSD's life much longer so it limits the writes which are the main cause of failure. By slowing down or disabling writes it gives you a chance to back up your data before it runs out of sectors to reallocate the failed ones to. Why shouldn't you reboot? Well the hardcore method of preventing SSD failure with partial data loss or returning bad data is for example found in Intel's consumer SSDs: After they have reached said point they will brick themselves on the next reboot. That way you'll never get bad data or a situation where the SSD can't write what it was supposed to write, but if you didn't know about that behaviour beforehand and have no backups, everything is gone.

1. Have you tried a cold reboot? Preferably by disconnecting the power cord after shutdown.
2. The monitor is definitely working (just to make sure)?
3. What do you mean you can't ctrl-alt-delete? Did your keyboard go black aswell?
4. Yes, you can do a clean install and keep the data on the other drives. If you disconnected them there's no way you could mess up and delete anything.
5. Since you get to the repair screen try a repair.
6. If there's no important data on the SSD or if you have another pc at hand to copy it, then fuck troubleshooting and just do a fresh install. It's not worth spending more time on troubleshooting than it would take to reinstall all programs and copy the data.

Slightly off topic:
This is why you keep backups, people. Also partitions are your friend. One just for windows and another for programs etc. on the SSD. I even moved appdata to that partition. I don't have to redo all settings, it's all there after a reinstall. Even better with backups of the windows partition I can nuke it whenever I feel like it and don't have to do anything if I haven't installed any new programs since the last backup.
Btw both HDDs and SSDs can and will die. You will most likely not see it coming. Especially SSDs can go from fine to dead from one boot to the next. Far more annoying is when they start silently messing with your data. Either way if you don't have backups, data will be lost.

tl;dr
BACKUPS!

In case anyone didn't notice yet, yes it's a troll.

My sides are in orbit right now.

60Hz > 144Hz because superior technology.
This just in:
100Hz mice > 1000Hz mice because superior technology.
Also 6KRO > NKRO because with superior technology 6 > infinity.

The human eye can't see more than 30fps anyway.

Ok, I'm done with the jokes.

I also wouldn't call it China, even though it's the Republic of China, most people call it Taiwan.

Question: Do you use a GPU, Demarini? What if I told you TSMC, a taiwanese company, manufactures most chips?

But wait there's more:
BenQ is from the same country as ASUS and TSMC.

Dealt is correct. It's pronounced delt but spelt dealt to really fuck you up. Welcome to the English language.
Good work by the way.

#9
Yes it's done by the router.
As to where, usually in the web interface. OP linked a picture of his so my instructions are based on that. On your router it'll probably look different.
Both the manual and google should be able to tell you if your router supports QoS and how to set it up.