#1332
Yeah, that new one makes sense.
Cheapest option would be the CX500.
If you want modular I'd go for the CX450M. It's a bit more expensive than the CX430M but the new CXM series seems to be signficantly better. No reviews yet, just going by a review of the same platform, so there's no guarantee.
If you want 80+ Gold sadly there's nothing with a more fitting wattage, but at least there's something within budget, the GQ 650.

#1328
Which of the 15,236,879 300W OEM PSUs that exist?
Because if it's a Delta then you're really not going to get anything better anyway.
480 should be 150W, 470 only 110W, either way with that CPU realistically drawing 50W (worst case 80W on linpack) and then some for HDD/SSD, mobo and fans you're barely going to hit 250W with the 480.

Of course if it's a "literal fire hazard just biding its time"-type PSU then I can see why you'd want a new one.

#1325
Current PSU?
Budget?

#1323
Still, you get better cooling and higher clockrates at the same price.
Those with only the same clockrates and about the same cooling performance as the Founder's Edition are cheaper.

Either way the FE makes no sense.

You could get a better cooler and SSD.

There's cheaper 2400MHz CL15 RAM.

If you want a short PSU the Cooler Master V550 is a better choice (also cheaper), if you're going for performance there's better options as well.

#1320
Tried the monitor with a different pc? The first guess is always windows.

#1318
Not exactly sure how you converted the price.
German or French pcpartpicker would get you at least semi-accurate prices.

Don't get the Founders Edition, it's just a money grab.
The 1080 also carries a significant premium right now, so unless you actually need that much performance don't get it.

Are you going to overclock?

I'm pretty sure anyone who got shot died sooner that they had to and therefore too young.

I feel especially sorry for the brother.

Crazy stalker probably?

#1315
Oops, I messed up.
You did get the Enthoo Pro M, can you confirm that? I can see it's a full ATX case though, so it doesn't really matter which one exactly
I'm not familiar with Australian laws but you should be able to return and replace the mobo / cooler with. another one, right?
If that's the case you have 3 options:
1. Leave it as is, it works, right?
2. Replace the NH-D15 with something that doesn't block the first slot (e.g. NH-D14, PH-TC14PE).
3. Replace the mobo with the ASRock Z170-Pro4 (or Pro4S, just not Z170M), Gigabyte Z170-D3H or Asus Z170-P. They all have the x16 slot as the second one and only an x1 slot that no one will use anyway above it. Get whichever is cheapest / available in the shop you got the Z170M-Pro4S from.

I'm not sure how I fucked this up, either I misrembered the PCIe slot configuration on the Z170M-Pro4(S) (unlikely) or I misclicked because they are directly next to each other in pcpartpicker when sorted by price (very likely, why else would I choose a full ATX case).

5TBs are gone now as well.
One 4TB is reserved for Kaneco, one is still available.

#1312
I see, prices might change until then so feel free to post again in the week before you build.

About the PSU the most drastic improvements would probably be the ripple supression (only about half the ripple) and efficiency (in most tests the V550 actually clears Platinum).

#1310
Seems fairly well thought out.
Do you already have the monitor?

When are you going to build it?

1./2. The exact wattage will depend on the GPU but 650W is definitely too much. Assume 200W for oc'd CPU, mobo, SSD, HDD and fans. So even with a really power hungry GPU you'd probably never need more than 500W. To not limit upgradeability too much I'd allow for at least a 200W GPU, so a 400-450W PSU. However there's pretty much no fully modular 400/450W 80+ Gold or higher PSUs. The semi-modular Seasonic G-450 would be an option.
For fully modular there are a few 550W options though:
The XFX XTR 550W (160mm) and the EVGA GS 550W (150mm). The EVGA is based on a similar platform, slightly cut down, so it performs slightly worse. They should be around the same price so you can choose what's more important to you, length or performance.
Last option, but more expensive would be the Cooler Master V550. It performs better than either and it's only 140mm.

3. The Noctua NH-D14 would be an option but the difference isn't that big and it would kill the black colourscheme.
And yes, all in one water coolers are terrible and overpriced and a custom loop is just way too much effort for what you're going to do (and even more expensive, plus potentially having to bleed the loop after every transport).
4. Wait for the aftermarket designs, the cheapest 1070s should be blower designs. Not the reference design, but custom ones. I don't know how they'll perform so check reviews first. I'm not too worried though since the 1070 shouldn't need a whole lot of power.

Btw you should get 2400MHz CL15 RAM, it's the same price.

#1307
Oh it's you.
I see you are still struggling with the English language.

Sadly I do not know how to build a problem for TF2.
I also do not know what the maximum amount of God of a problem is or how you would go about maximizing the amount of God of a problem.

#1308
I'd try to reuse as much as possible or even get some used parts.
For a build with only new parts I'd probably sacrifice 5% performance and drop down to an i3-6100 to get a better mobo and an SSD. Maybe a microATX case, but that's it.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($110.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: MSI B150M BAZOOKA Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($61.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($14.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Silicon Power Slim S55 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($56.08 @ Amazon)
Case: Xion XON-310_BK MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($21.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($29.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $296.01
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-10 06:48 EDT-0400

A better CPU won't do anything for most other games anyway, a GPU would, so tha's a nice upgrade path.

If you know it then why the fuck do you still do it?

About the build short answer: No.
Long answer: Hell no!
Explanation: It's a terrible build.

That doesn't help you? Well then
Fight me¯\_(ツ)_/¯

#1305
Yeah no, there's no such thing. Now I really want to see that video.

Do you know what an HDD / hard disk is? SSDs do the same, different technology, faster, more expensive, but still used for the same things. This is where you save things. The graphics card got absolutely nothing to do with it. Also SSDs range from 128MB to 16TB but that's a different story.

About CPU frequency: Even when limiting it to LGA775 there's still two slightly different architectures, Core (Allendale / Conroe / Kentsfield) on 65nm and Penryn (Wolfdale / Yorkfield) on 45nm. The difference is only 5-10%, so it only matters if the clockrates are really close. But generally yes, higher frequency = faster. In your example even 10% wouldn't make a difference, the 3.0GHz will be faster either way.
Here are the lists in case you want to check whether a CPU is Core or Penryn:
Core
Penryn

#1303
In that case for the learning experience:
I'm pretty sure the Sempron LE-1300 supports more than 2GB RAM.
Also that system was at least from 2008 (although indeed low end and never meant for gaming).

About the "new" mobo: If I'm not mistaken it only supports DDR2 RAM, so be aware of that when you buy RAM, DDR3 (and DDR4 obviously) won't work.

I'm a bit confused here as to what you meant with that.