#2942
Basically what #2943 with some minor additions and one correction.
Arctic Silver 5 is ancient and actually worse than what most brands (Phanteks, Noctua, Thermalright, Xigmatek, be quiet!, Scythe, etc.) include with their coolers anyway. https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-performance-benchmark,3616-18.html
It's certainly not worth spending 5$ on thermal paste when you're buying a 35$ cooler. A 40$ got a better chance at improving temperatures and if you're going to buy thermal paste at all buy something better than AS5.

The additions:
-non-oc 7700K vs 8600K is complicated because the 7700K is clocked a bit higher. Oc'd 8600K hands down.
-860 Evo is a thing.
-200R is meh, no dust filters at that price is a bit embarrassing.
-PSU is a bit overkill. 450/500W (depending on which steps the line uses) is just fine.

#2944
120 Hz for the main monitor?
Also keeping the keyboard?

But how can you tell with the peripherals? What peripherals are we talking about? How do you know they didn't turn on? That's what I'm asking.

So proper, full shutdown? Like I said, windows sometimes does weird things. You could also disable hibernation, but first could you test what happens if you shut down normally, then unplug the pc, wait a few seconds, plug it back in and try to start it? That would rule out standby.

I meant manually reselecting the correct monitor input. Just select something else and then DP again.

Ok.
Just to make sure:
You press the power button, lights turn on, fans spin, but monitor and peripherals don't turn on. Then you kill it via power button and press the power button again it starts normally.

How can you tell with the peripherals? RGB keyboard? Have you tried manually selecting the input on the monitor?
Was the pc properly shut down before or was it in standby/hibernation? Windows can do weird things.

No, fix that first. If the GPU is the problem you'd just waste a lot of money.

What does "it wont start but just light up my case"? What lights up the case if the pc doesn't start? Do the fans spin? Are you just not getting a video signal?
"the i press the power button and it works" Does that mean you're starting it a second time or was the first try not with the power button?

For the future: I know nVidia likes to play stupid games with the SP count in identically named GPUs, but a 1060 3GB is a 1060 3GB. 10-20% cheaper than all other shops is usually a sale, 30-50% is usually a pricing error (e.g. 1070 priced like a 1060) and anything below that is either a huge pricing error that won't be honored or a scam so definitely not worth trying.

#2930
It was on sale, it's 255.05€ now.

#2931
It would be far cheaper to fix those issues.

16 or 8GB RAM? I'm guessing 16GB RAM and 8GB VRAM?

Anyway what issues are you having?

That's quite a bit over your budget though.
Sadly tweakers can't filter by number of DVI ports, but if you just need a list this would work.
https://geizhals.de/?cat=gra16_512&xf=5426_2%7E9809_13+4784+-+RX+570%7E9809_13+5792+-+RX+580+(XTR)%7E9809_13+5792+-+RX+580+(XTX)
https://geizhals.de/?cat=gra16_512&xf=5426_2%7E9810_7+3470+-+GTX+1060+(3GB%2F1152+Shader)%7E9810_7+3855+-+GTX+1060+(6GB%2F1280+Shader)%7E9810_7+3855+-+GTX+1060+9Gbps

You'll have to check the prices manually on tweaker though.

#2924
Future proofing for what? A 450W GPU? They don't make those. Well there are some very special editions but you can't afford those.
It's an entry level PSU. Not bad, but for your purposes not any better than a 450W PSU of similar quality.
This one is on sale right now. https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FQ648d/corsair-power-supply-cp9020101na
Get faster RAM instead. E.g. https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2C7CmG/team-vulcan-8gb-2-x-4gb-ddr4-2800-memory-tlred48g2800hc16cdc01 also on sale atm.

No, not much of a difference.

Depends on who you buy from.

And what #2925 said.

#2926
It's not spam if you're already posting anyway.
Really all that's important is:
-250€ budget (Netherlands)
-at least as fast as a GTX 670

That means essentially something between GTX 1050 / RX 560 (about the same speed as the GTX 670) and a GTX 1060 3GB / RX 570 (if you can find one for 250€) which would be around 70% faster. Depends on the game though so it's really anything between 50 and 100%. Between that there's also the 1050 Ti.
That should be all your options in terms of new GPUs.

I have no idea how you managed to fuck up spelling DVI so many times then.

XMP is unrelated so don't expect that to fix it.

Activate windows and do a clean driver uninstall with DDU. Just the uninstall. Then see what happens.
If it works reinstall the drivers and test again.

Yes, in the BIOS.

Could you at least try to spell it correctly for once?

If my guess was correct and you're using a DVI to VGA adapter then your adapter is shit.
If you're using a DVI to VGA cable then it shouldn't work at all.

The RX 580 only supports DVI-D
Only DVI-I supports VGA.

Most likely 2133. You need to enable the XMP profile.
Also in general "RAM from Corsair" and "PSU from Corsair" is about as helpful as "CPU from AMD".

DVI, VGI or VGA?

Yeah, 2500 or 2500K doesn't matter, whichever is cheaper. Only the 2550K would be marginally faster.
You could just get the GPU first (could still take a look at used GPUs) and upgrade the CPU only if it turns out to be holding you back (especially min fps).

RAM might be a good idea. How many slots does your mobo have though? Would be great if you don't have to replace anything and can just add more.

As for CPUs so you're not limited to the 2500 here's a rough ranking:
3770(K) > 3570(K) > 2700K > 3550 > 2600(K) = 2550K > 3470 > 2500(K) > 3450
Below that I don't think the upgrade would be worth it.
The 2500(K) should be around 20% faster than 2100, more in OW and DOOM.

I know but that's the best way to show the price difference. Also I assumed that he would not be going for a 300$ 1050 Ti.
Used prices are different and when looking for used GPUs you should include older GPUs as well instead of only looking at those that are still being sold.
And a used 570 is a huge gamble.

#8
This would be mostly about clockrate. Because the i3s top out a bit lower than i5/i7 you should probably get an i5-2500(K), 2550K or 3570(K), even though it being an i5 won't make any difference except in Overwatch.
I'm guessing your mobo doesn't allow overclocking either.
Something like an i3-2130 would only be 10% faster, so it's not really worth the effort.
If you can get an i7-3770(K), 2700K or 2600(K) for the same price as an i5-3570/2550/2500 you can get it for those extra 0.1 GHz but otherwise it's not worth it.

#9

He did tell us which games he was going to play and I trust him enough to figure out his old GPU is the problem (because the CPU really shouldn't be).
The budget would be more important to know.

#11
Well that depends on the budget and which 1050 Ti he was going to buy.
https://pcpartpicker.com/products/video-card/#c=380,392&sort=price&page=1
Because for simlar models the difference is about 50$ or ~25%. That's not exactly the same price. Nothing wrong with paying 25% more for 50% more performance but only if you can afford it.

Ah yes, excellent advice. "Just triple your budget so you can afford both".
Or how do you thinking splitting the cost of the 1050 Ti would work? There's the 1050 which is barely cheaper and the 1030 which is slower than iGPUs. And for a new CPU he'd need a new mobo and new RAM. That would cost more than a 1050 Ti, without even buying a CPU.

If he wanted to get used parts then he wouldn't have the problem because he could already afford both.