It requires cheats, yes, even though it's not cheat flagged (but the server needs sv_cheats 1 for it to work). Achievements are disabled in that but strange kills aren't.

http://i.imgur.com/iS7Q274.png

Basically you can't. Any HudItemEffectMeter needs to be set up in code for it to work, which obviously isn't the case for ammo in general. At least that's my understanding of it, never say never but some things can only go so far.

There is the circular progress meters / triuber bars, which unlike the bars do work with any number you put in. But they also always assume it's in percents / 0-100, so it only really works for half of heavy or pyro's ammo. Might be some interesting stuff you could do still but you'd basically have to design your hud around it.

If you only care about making it work for one item / ammo count, you could make a custom font for it. Though things will break pretty quickly once you start using weapons with other ammo counts.

Health is doable. You'd just need to go with the bonus cross method for health and go crazy with refracts to get it to that shape. If you're willing to learn huds in depth (more than most hud editors know :B) then MagnumHUD would be a good reference and has all the building blocks at least. Its healthcross is already done that particular way, and some customization options do reshape it through refracts (iirc, I know I had one and I'm pretty sure I released it, but if not Prism HUD has some reshaped health stuff through refracts), so you'd mostly just need to work out the details of repositioning it and replacing the images to use the right color and shape.

Ammo isn't as doable. You can get it working perfectly for one weapon / max ammo value, through heavily customized fonts. The issue is that if you make a font where a fully filled bar is 6 ammo for example, then when you go soldier and have 4 ammo, or go medic and have 40 ammo, it'll still act like you're supposed to have 6 max. It's technically possible to use different hud files based on your class choice that would mostly fix that issue, but no method works well and is a lot more trouble than it's worth, and still won't fix different ammo values between loadout choices and primary/secondary. If it were me I'd say fuck it to the ammo, but it's all up to you if you want to do something about it.

I'm on linux now so I can't really do anything with vtf's and can't whip something up myself, but the health is possible. Ammo is possible depending on how well you want it to work, but it'll never work well.

That's the issue, new teams want to learn how to play proper 6s better but you can't really learn fundamentals by getting destroyed by a team dicking around with fulltime offclasses and trying their best to go against the core concepts of 6s.

If they were playing genuine 6s that new teams would still lose to but at least learn from, I don't think anywhere near as many people would have issues with it. But if a team does everything they can to play retarded and only wins because they're way more experienced than the competition, I can't blame anyone for complaining.

Coolermaster keyboards are good options. Their keycaps aren't great but they are easily replaceable if you want to invest $20-$30 more on a cheap set, and most gaming brands don't have great keycaps either.

Ducky as mentioned is very good and has some of the best stock backlit keycaps on the market. Filco, also mentioned, is generally good too. Leopold is very good, and has PBT keycaps which are a better and more durable material than most keyboards' ABS keycaps, but can't be backlit. Varmilo is another good option that offers PBT keycaps as well. Just some things to look into.

e: I prefer Gateron browns to Cherry browns as well. Smoother switch and bigger tactile bump, though they have slightly more wobble to them. Cheaper too. Can't say the same about most other clones, but Gateron is arguably better than Cherry so if a keyboard offers Gateron, it's definitely worth considering.

By faster actuation we're talking 0.1mm higher, which is 0.333ms faster assuming a finger speed of 300mm/s (which is the only figure I can find online, for Romer-G promos though so it might be even faster making the actuation difference even smaller). To put that into perspective, if you were running a game at 60fps, there is a 98% chance that the higher actuation won't even matter and it'll still register on the same frame either way. Faster actuations are just a marketing gimmick and they're really dumb imo, but Razer switches don't even actuate meaningfully faster.

Past that it's just either rebranded Kailh browns (for older batches of razer boards) or rebranded Greetech browns (newer). Neither one's any good though, they are both plagued with inconsistencies and Kailh is often considered the worst common clone even. Hell, their inconsistency means even their actuation point is +/-0.4mm between switches on the same board.

For mechs, they're meh. You can't go wrong with Cherry switches and a backplate, but Corsair cuts a lot of corners and stands by bad design decisions. Their keycaps aren't good, their backplate doesn't secure the switches well and results in key wobble, their LEDs are not made to last and some dying in a year or so is a common issue. and there's no onboard memory. All of that with a nonstandard bottom row that makes keycap replacement options really limited, and a non-removable cable that's way more bulky than it needs to be and kills portability, neither for any good reason.

It'll always be a step up over most rubber domes (other than Topre if you're into that), and these are all relatively minor issues. It's just that you could be buying keyboards without any of those issues instead; it's not a god keyboard and it's not worth the money when better alternatives exist for the same or lower prices.

Mannterface is the first public example of it (colly made it first but didn't tell anyone how, I figured out how to do it separately, then told mannterface's maker who thought to put it in the tournament id's and released it).

It's basically the overheal/hurt flashing cross being set to appear on any health (by setting low health to be 100% health) and being positioned and having the adjustment variable to go from one side to the other. That's done in the health file (it can be done in any health file, not just the tournament id one), the animations part is just making it not flash.

That will, by consequence, make changing the health numbers to red or whatever on low health impossible, since you're telling the game that any bit of damage counts as low health. It's not hard or complicated at all, it's just a weirdish workaround that can take some time to get.

Cherry MX reds are pretty grainy (all cherry is, but it's a lot easier to notice on linears, and even within linears is more noticeable on reds), and light switches are disliked by a lot of people and are louder than heavier switches (because you bottom out harder on lighter switches). I like light switches personally, but brands like Gateron would be smoother if you want to go that route. Of the common switch types, mx blacks (+ aftermarket o-rings or silencing clips) would be the quietest.

Ducky shines offer quality, basically. No issues, good quality everything (ducky shine 5 and later versions have some of the best ABS keycaps on any board, for example). Sturdier, better feel, ducky shine 5+ has good onboard programmability, just in general a step up.

Almost every board that doesn't have function keys built in has them available through function layers, so don't feel like you're missing out on functionality or anything. Imo it's more convenient anyway because you don't have to move your hands for it that way, I'm running a 40% keyboard (a minivan) and one of my favorite things is how much more accessible the function keys are.

Though that is entirely down to personal preference and it's fine if you prefer larger keyboards, which good brands like Ducky and Coolermaster do still offer.

They did make it lighter
http://www.duckychannel.com.tw/page-en/Ducky-Secret-M/
93.5g with only a few mm shaved off the proportions

It doesn't really have a WMO shape though. When I compare it, my Nixeus Revel looks much closer to my WMO than the Ducky Secret does (though I'm going off promo images because I don't have one).

You'd be buying it for the PBT shell mostly, it's nothing special otherwise.

Between the two, Corsair's is better and increasing the price would be better. I wouldn't get either though.

There are many issues with Corsair's keyboards. Nothing ever major, but still big enough that you shouldn't be getting any of their issues with the price you're paying. The keycaps are absolute garbage (paint-and-etched cheap thin ABS, so it wears down quickly, shines fast, I've mistaken the legends for dirt many times, and doesn't have a satisfying feel). The keycaps are also hard to replace, because Corsair went with a nonstandard bottom row (wider spacebar, smaller other keys to compensate) for no real reason, but that really limits replacement options. The cable is huge and bulky, much more than it needs to be, and makes even moving it around the desk hard (I had to bring mine with me every day for a while so I'm pretty bitter about its lack of portability especially). Keys wobble more than they need to too, and the case acts like an echo chamber that makes some not great pingy sounds on bottom-out and release. Again, all relatively minor, but you can get much better.

A magicforce with gateron switches would be my recommendation for a budget keyboard. Ducky, a Pok3r, Coolermaster, Leopold, Varmillo, and Filco all make/are very good keyboards that I would look into. You get better build quality for comparable prices, and none of the issues above.

If you are sure you want a fullsized keyboard but go with one of the non-fullsized keyboards there, I'd recommend a separate numpad as well. Good ones can be pretty cheap (a jelly comb is on amazon.co.uk for £18, or $17 on amazon.com), and you get the mouse space benefits of a TKL but get to keep the numpad too. Best of both worlds.

I wouldn't really say that. I'd recommend Gateron (smoother and cheaper, but more wobble) over cherry for linears and browns, I'd only recommend Outemu for blues (if you want it even louder than cherry, but all their other switches suck), and would not recommend Kailh or Greetech.

Corsair's cases are basically just their backplate exposed. They still have a plastic base and as far as feel goes it's no different.

Because csgo awp's scope and tf2 sniper's scope has a different fov, the tf2 equivalent for that csgo setting is zoom_sensitivity_ratio 0.79347141318809238

Assuming fov_desired 90, because it's completely different values at other settings. Here's a pastebin of the different values for the different fov_desired settings.

Experimentally verified: http://www.teamfortress.tv/35467/on-the-correct-value-of-zoom-sensitivity-ratio

Keep in mind that it's not really that big of a deal and a "wrong" setting will only be off by a few pixels. The ideal is only really for the sake of getting it perfect, not that it really matters much. If you've been using 0.8333 or 0.8189 you're not going to suddenly see your aim change a ton and get better by using 0.7934.

Can attest to the Revel too. Great mouse for a great price.

Since this is mostly between that and the G pro, as long as you don't go too high with the DPI, a 3360 and a 3366 will perform the same (sub 3200 dpi iirc). They are approximately the same weight (approx 84g). The G Pro is a closer shape to what you're used to, but if your only real complaint was the height, they are within a mm of eachother. And of course the Nixeus Revel is significantly cheaper.

?

Both are good options but I'm not seeing what you're trying to prove there.

Unbanning OP scout unlocks doesn't make that any better though.

I feel bad for all the new people getting into comp actually. When I started playing, what you were supposed to do and how you were supposed to do it was pretty clear from the whitelist. The game was fun at a low level because you only had to concern yourself with getting better at some standard setups that you'd always see in every match, it was quick to learn what you were supposed to do. Good teams destroyed you, but it felt good because you knew you were learning from them.

That doesn't really apply anymore, at least in my experience trying to help out a newer team. Now a new player has to research extra just to figure out what parts of the whitelist are good staple weapons, what's situational, what's a gimmick, what's bad but is allowed anyway and shouldn't be used. They have to learn how to deal with all these gimmicks for when a team runs them to cheese a win, even though nobody actually wants to and would rather play an honest game that they've prepared for. The game becomes much more chaotic at the bottom levels, and they have to just hope that when someone says "6s is way more organized" that they mean later on and aren't lying. They have to go through a bunch of extra hoops before they can even really start to play actual competitive.

We weren't alienating them by banning shit, we're alienating them by expecting them to instantly learn how to deal with that same shit.

no tom jones is

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