LOOKS SOLID FRIEND

thank

.

it's a little imbalanced

not sure on case quality, CPU cooler is both awful and overkill since you won't be overclocking, motherboard is a little low end, PSU is great but overkill.

CPU, SSD, and RAM are all fine, I'd just tweak the things listed above. I'd ditch the CPU cooler and opt for a slightly higher end motherboard like this one, and I'd do some serious research into cases and case quality, rather than just picking what looks cool.

for PSU I'd either go with this which is a really solid but modest power supply, or this if you want fully modular

of course at $1000 I would seriously consider overclocking, it's incredibly easy nowadays

IMO drop the liquid cooling and SSD for now and just get a 1tb drive and a decent fan, gives you way more space and it also saves you some $ and upgrading at a later time is easy

or with a budget like this, he might as well just get both an SSD and a 1TB HDD

of course, im gonna keep this pc and upgrade it later on in life.

thanks, the case has 3 fans and this is my first time building a pc, case recommendations?

yeah i was thinking of dropping liquid cooling its a bit of a overkill. and i dont really need 1tb, maybe 500 gb but not 1tb. thanks though :)

EDIT: i was thinking of buying a new screen bc atm im running a 60 hz aoc screen with alot of burned pixels, is this overkill for a 144hz monitor?

http://i.imgur.com/xxDl1mx.png

as for cases, here are a couple of my go-tos, pick what you like:
Cooler Master N400
Antec 1100V2
Antec 900
Fractal Design Define R4
Silverstone Temjin TJ08B-E

It's a little outdated, but it's certainly not a bad monitor. That's about the price range that any 144Hz panel will net you nowadays.
I'd take a look into one of these:
ASUS VG248QE
BenQ XL2420Z

if you want to budget out on the graphics card a little, then go for a R7 370

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127884&cm_re=r7_370-_-14-127-884-_-Product

I have one and its amazingly good for the price. I get 250 fps and 200 fps streaming

Here's your current build:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/6nGqFT

Let's go through this one part at a time.
CPU: Can't tell if it's a good decision because you didn't tell us what you're going to be using the pc for.

CPU cooler: All in one liquid coolers are bullshit. They are louder, hotter and more expensive than air coolers. Also you won't be needing more than the stock cooler anyway for a locked CPU. If you want a quieter cooler even a 20$ air cooler would be more than enough. Just don't get the 212 (Evo) since it's fairly loud.

Motherboard: The motherboard itself is fine but

So you're getting a full ATX case (for a µATX mobo) and a 750W PSU so you can go SLI/Crossfire, but then you choose a motherboard that doesn't support either. Make up your mind. If you're getting a second GPU for >200$ and a new mobo for 100$, maybe even a new CPU for >200$, 60$ for a PSU are a drop in the bucket. Might aswell save 30$ on the PSU now and get a newer and better model when you upgrade.

Memory: Again, I don't know what you'll use the pc for, so I can't tell wether or not you need 16GB. I highly doubt it though.

Storage: If you don't need more than 250GB don't get an HDD at all, at least for now. If you do, get at least a 1TB HDD. $/GB is horrible <1TB. For example the Seagate Barracuda 500GB is 42$, the 1TB model which is far newer and a lot faster is 47$.
The SSD is good.

GPU: Same again, don't know what you want to do, can't tell you what you should get.

Case: It's good, but see motherboard. Can't go SLI/Crossfire, got a µATX mobo, no need to spend 100$ on a full ATX case.

PSU: Good but expensive on Newegg, if you plan on ordering exclusive from Newegg, and also overkill = waste of money, see motherboard.

#9
Why not XL2411Z?

Knowing what he wants, I redrew things again on your feedback. Sorry, I haven't done this stuff in quite awhile I'm not really up-to-scratch. Was just trying to help a friend--glad you stepped in though.

The new list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/MFnLQ7

My eyes are twitching.

Oh god you edited your post, it's even worse now.
Please stop.

Why are you doing this to me?
And then you get thermal paste for 10$. WHY?!
Let me summarize this:
-You added an aftermarket cooler even though none was needed.
-You picked a loud one so it won't even be quieter than the Intel stock cooler.
-And then you decided to get thermal paste, which will reduce temps by 2°C at best, which you don't need on a locked CPU anyway and makes absolutely no sense because getting a 35$ will do more than twice that while being quieter.

You say he doesn't plan on using Crossfire so you went ahead and picked a Z170 motherboard without proper SLI/Crossfire support. Let me remind you, what the two main reasons for getting a Z170 mobo are:
-overclocking support
-SLI/Crossfire support
He will get neither one and doesn't need them either. So why Z170 ffs?!

Then there's the RAM. Going from 16GB to 8GB should save him about half the price, 50$. Except you picked the second most expensive kit so he'd only save 8$. But hey, it's CL14 instead of CL15. He doesn't need those 50$ CL15, or 60$ CL13 or 70$ CL12, no, paying 92$ for CL14 is the correct way. Great thinking there.

Case is barely worth talking about, I still don't see the need for full ATX.

But the PSU, oh the PSU. I said a 100$ 750W PSU was overkill, so you chose a 650W PSU, which you yourself admitted is still overkill, for 106$.

Now I was fairly close to an aneurysm when you picked 750/650W PSUs for a <350W build. But then you took a look at the 380, which is woefully inadequate for getting 144fps in "a wide range of games" unless you want to get that 90s-no-aliasing-and-minecraft-textures feel, and replaced it with a 370. A 650W PSU for a 265W build.

I will come up with a better build once my blood pressure is back to normal.

#1
Here we go, two baseline builds, one Skylake, one Haswell, and there's still a lot of money left.
If you want overclocking no problem (although I don't think it's worth it).
If you want a 980 no problem either. I didn't put it in there right away because I don't know if it would make sense. I just need to know what settings in which games he's going for to determine how much GPU power you need to get 144fps.
The XL2411Z is my default recommendation. I'm not sure why yttrium calls it outdated then recommends the VG248QE which is older, worse and has less features, and the XL2420Z which is the same age and it's most notable feature over the XL2411Z is a non-wireless remote for the OSD.

Without further ado:
Skylake:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($204.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock B150M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($78.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($46.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($88.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 390 8GB PCS+ Video Card ($293.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($43.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($49.00 @ Newegg)
Total: $806.83
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-10-05 09:59 EDT-0400

Haswell:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($192.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M Anniversary Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($51.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Pareema 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($88.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 390 8GB PCS+ Video Card ($293.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($43.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($49.00 @ Newegg)
Total: $760.72
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-10-05 10:09 EDT-0400

If you want a semi-modular PSU: Cooler Master VSM 550W

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2414-LED-144-FHD-24-inch-Full-HD-144Hz-24-Gaming-Monitor-/111657800658

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QNIX-QX2414-144Hz-24-LED-1920x1080-Full-HD-FPS-Gaming-PC-Monitor/121696946784?

If you want to save money it's a decent choice.
Side Notes:
- This monitor is notorious for dead / stuck pixels. The "Perfect Pixel" part of this means that they actually do a quality check before shipping. Keep in mind though this quality check is to be sure their's no dead pixel in the center of the screen and no more than 3ish (this is very typical of most manufacturers in general)
- Monitor doesn't have an OSD menu
- Ignore the 1.5ms gtg; monitor has the same GTG as the ASUS and BenQ 144Hz monitors. In general this manufacturer reports gtgs 50% higher than NA manufacturers due to different gray levels for testing.
-dual-link DVI is the only option and their's only 1 port.

Prices on Ebay range from $149.00 to $199.00, I bought one at 159.00 about 3 weeks ago, and have only 1 partially stuck pixel in the top right.

I didn't say the XL2411Z was a bad choice, just that it's a fair bit older (2-3 yrs now) and based on older tech. Its color performance is a fair bit worse.

And for the record I went with a 620W PSU because I also upgraded to a mobo that supports CFX, so he has that option in the future.

Older than what? I still don't understand.
The VG248QE is the oldest of all three monitors. The XL2411Z and the XL2420Z are the same age.
All three use the exact same panel, an AUO M240HW01 V8.
The VG248QE uses PWM backlight, like the BenQ XL2xxxT series, the whole Z series does not.
The VG248QE got absolutely awful gamma.
The XL2420Z is 50$ more than the XL2411Z and those 50$ get you:
-a display port
-another HDMI port
-USB 2.0 ports
-a wired remote for the OSD

I really don't understand it. You said

But recommended an even older monitor with the same panel and one monitor that is completely identical except it has USB ports.

Sorry, I was under the impression that the XL2420Z replaced the XL2411Z and I also incorrectly recalled color comparisons that rated the XL2420Z better.

I think I actually got the XL2411Z and XL2411T mixed up in my head. My bad.

The XL2xxxT uses a PWM backlight and the Z series doesn't? Isn't it the other way around? I thought the PWM backlight is a requirement for the whole motion blur reduction (LightBoost) feature that the Z series includes but the T series doesn't. I might be wrong on this though, there isn't all that much documentation on the technical aspects of LightBoost.

PWM is easy, continous dimming is hard. It's not about lightboost, it's about normal operation.
Earlier VG248QE models used PWM at 360Hz to reduce the brightness, later models use 6*refresh rate (864Hz at 144Hz). The PWM is also synced to the refresh. Earlier XL24xxT models used PWM like the early VG248QE, later models and the Z series are PWM-free.

Most people don't experience any problems with PWM, only some are sensitive enough to get headaches from PWM above 200Hz and practically no one from frequency used on the newer VG248QE, but why take the chance?

There's also one thing that BenQ hasn't implented so far iirc.
Lightboost is very similar to PWM and since you want as little motion blur as possible the brightness will already be at the minimum you can tolerate, so you shouldn't need to lower the brightness. However let's say you're already at a fairly low lightboost setting but you want even lower brightness, without lowering the strobe length further. The strobes are 1.4 to 2.25ms. PWM technically wouldn't reduce the strobe length, since it turns the backlight of in the middle of the strobe. So what would you need to do to get 10% granularity, to reduce the brightness to 90% at the minimum strobe length. You have to turn of the backlight during 10% of the strobe, 1.4ms/10 = 0.14ms, so you need a backlight that's effectively capable of running at over 7000Hz. That's not happening. Simply using lower Voltage like the Zs do during normal operation is perfectly feasible though.

http://cdn.meme.am/instances2/500x/2274697.jpg

y u guys so helpful thank
i shed tear

THANK YOU HOLY SHITE

both builds should perform basically the same in every game, and I'd give a VERY small edge to the skylake build.

do you think they can run overwatch when it comes out? i know theres no way of saying yet but

I'd be surprised if that PC couldn't handle almost any game at 60+ FPS on medium settings. I'd assume on Low Settings overwatch should be an easy 140+FPS for either build, but I have no way to 100% confirm that.

-edit-
assuming 1080p. 1440p / 2160p I have no idea.

im prob gonna have overwatch on low so thank you!

For TF2 and CS:GO on 1024x768 the 390 is definitely overkill, I can't say anything about overwatch yet, but on low settings I doubt you'll need that much power to get 144fps.

For TF2 and CS:GO you should consider overclocking though. Would overclocking be an option for you?

What's your total budget, including the monitor? I didn't max out the builds so some money would be left for a monitor.

I'll adjust them (and narrow it down to one build) based on your answers.

overclocking is spooky :( also my total budget is 1k but i already made a build with ur skylake build that only goes 200 over

It's fine, contrary to popular belief overclocking isn't free. It costs money and a lot of time/effort.

There's no reason to go 20% over budget if you don't have to. When radeon said "a wide range of games" I thought he meant AAA titles and for that the 390 made sense. For TF2 and CS:GO it's total overkill, like I said. If Overwatch is the only other game you'll be playing a 285=380 should be plenty.

Here we go, within budget, including monitor:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock B150M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($78.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($46.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($88.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 285 2GB Dual-X Video Card ($174.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($43.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($44.00 @ Newegg)
Monitor: BenQ XL2411Z 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($269.00 @ Amazon)
Total: $976.83
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-10-06 18:50 EDT-0400

how many fps would i be getting exactly with this build?

In TF2 and CS:GO? Lots. I don't have any recent benchmarks for CS:GO and a TF2 update was just released, but the usual "300fps in 6s with maxfps cfg" shouldn't be a problem. It's also impossible to benchmark because fancy cosmetic items ruin fps, so depending on who you're playing against/with your fps will differ quite a lot.

Overwatch no idea.