For the CPU, i feel like going for the 7900X based on price/benchmark. Thanks for the overclocking advice but yeah not planning on doing it.
For GPU, 4060 Ti is good i think for the price difference and the editing is not going to take too much time anyway.
Ok for the µATX. I dont need more than i said previously and unlikely to change for the foreseeable future.
No need for ODD, i had one in my previous case but never used it. A card reader and if possible at least 2 audio output in the case, one for headphone and one for hifi (not sure if it's a thing or if you need the soundcard for that). Thanks

this seems outdated, you should update it

#3961
As for sound, cases usually only have a front panel headphone output and microphone input, because that's all the mobos got connections for. On the rear of the mobo there will be more though, so usually you'd plug anything big and stationary into the back and headphones into the front as needed.

This is not meant to be a final partlist, just a general outline.
https://fr.pcpartpicker.com/list/PJQsbK
Pcpartpicker tends to be pretty bad outside of the US, but it's convenient to show what a build would roughly look like.

You'll need to check what's actually available and cheap in whichever shops you buy from, but the gist of it is
-7900X
-Decent cooler that fits on AM5 mobos and inside whichever case you chose. Standard tower cooler should be enough, not too thin though, 120 or 140mm fan. Dual tower if you want something even better, but you're not overclocking. Don't try to cheap out on this, the 7900X is a 170W CPU, and the cooler it runs, the higher the boost clockrates will be.
-B650 µATX mobo with 4 RAM slots. If you don't need Wifi then skip that. B650E if you want/need PCIe 5.0. 4 RAM slots because only 2 slots on a µATX mobo are the first sign that corners have been cut. Again, you're not overclocking, so you don't need anything special, and µATX is cheaper than full ATX, B650 is cheaper than X670. Avoid A620 though.
-2x16GB DDR-6000 CL36 or thereabouts should do. Just get whatever is cheap. Check the mainboard's memory compatibility list if you want to make doubly sure it'll work.
-Some sort of lower midrange 1TB SSD, that means TLC, not QLC. Tons of options here, reviews are your friend.
-Pretty much any 4-6 TB HDD will do.
-4060 Ti, again choose whichever you find a good deal for.
-Case with an external 5.25" slot (3.5" is much rarer), 2 fan included, and dust filters. Seriously, get one with dust filters.
-550W PSU (that should be plenty), 80+ Gold or better, fully modular. Check the PSU tier list or actual reviews to see if it's actually good though, 80+ is just an efficiency certificate, not a quality certificate.

There should still be enough money left for windows, if you need it, and a nice 4K monitor, especially once you actually look for better prices than just amazon.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/nz2wwc

Any comments?

I know the motherboard is a bit questionable, but it's so cheap that as long as it just supports a stable overclock in TF2/CS I don't really care. The other boards are so much more expensive that I might as well upgrade my CPU instead of bothering to overclock at all.

yes i really dont like TN panels but you want 360hz dyac so fuck am i gonna do
looks good to me but perhaps a better cooled and better power delivery on the 6700XT could be in order

I feel you on the TN panel, but no IPS has anything close to DYAC (except the pg27aqn, but that's like 500 bucks more which is the cost of a nice 4k monitor anyway). I was also considering the xg2431, but the room gets pretty bright and I didn't think it would cut it.

As far as coolers, I guess I could get a 240mm AIO but from what I have seen the performance difference isn't more than a few degrees, plus my last AIO had the pump die after a few years which kind of put me off water cooling.

Could definitely shell out a bit more for the PSU but I figured a ~50 watt buffer was fine. You're probably right on this one

im not really concerned about the CPU cooling because i dont know how hard are you gonna try and push it since 13600k can draw ~150W+ under load when OC'd and i cba to look up the clearence of your ITX case and ram sticks to figure out the best cpu cooler for you not that i know a whole lot about it

its just that some versions of dual fan cards especially budget ones Asrock included tend to sound like a hair dryer under load(shitty fans and high RPM) or have poor contact with the VRM or have shitty or not enough VRM or awful cheap cooling pads or they cheaped out on aluminum amount
if the difference is 20-30$ for a better version i would pay it gladly for the peace of mind but this also depends on how quiet you want the whole build to be, i can stand ~50-55dB because I sit in headphones/earphones all day when i use the computer

If it comes to that, I'll deshround and use some case fans and ducts. Thanks for the tips

Ok for the sound thats what i was doing before one in front and one in the back.

Thanks for the part list.
For the CPU, i found a better price than amazon as you said. I will check that for every item later
For the cooler, just to be sure the CPU cooler and case that you put in the list meet all the requirement that you tell after ?
Ok for the B650 with 4 RAM slot that you listed. Will be nice to have wifi if needed. No need for PCIe 5.0 from what i saw.
For the RAM, i should buy once 2 x 16GB and keep 2 slot empty for now ? Just making sure. I will probably try to get the exact item except if there is a huge price difference and if not will check the compatibility list thanks for the advice.
For SSD and HDD, i will have a look at that.
For the 4060 Ti, yeah once again amazon is not the best price after a quick check.
For the case, same question than the cooler before. Will probably get those 2 exacts items if so.
For the PSU, it seems that the review of the one you listed are great and he is in speculative list in your link but it seems lile the brand got a good reputation so i should be safe.

Last thing is the compatibility note of your pc part list, something that i should look into or it's fine ?
Money wise it looks perfect yeah. Will have a look if i need to buy Windows but i might have someone who have one extra. And for the 4K screen i will probably get one a bit later and use the old one for now (if he is still working :D )
Thanks a lot for your help already. Once we figure those last points, i will do a final list in 1-2 weeks and get back to you for a last check becore buying.

Like I said, you don't have to get these exact parts, a different CPU cooler is fine too, just not too small. Bigger is fine too.
For compatibility, you should mostly worry about the height. Most case manufacturers list the max height height for a cooler that fits, so check that if you're not sure.
Yes, 2x16GB with 2 slots empty. 4x8GB would work, as would 2x16GB in a mobo with only 2 slots, but 4 slots are an easy way to tell that a mobo probably doesn't suck, and 2x16GB is better for technical reasons.
Especially with the RAM, you really don't need the exact same. DDR5-6000, CL36, any kit that got that is fine.
With PSUs, just ignore brands, because almost none of them were actually built or designed by the brand that's selling them. E.g. be quiet! sells PSUs made by CWT, FSP, HEC, and Seasonic.
I didn't really pay any attention to that note, but you can get a PSU with 2x ATX12V/EPS 8-pin connectors if you're worried. The 7900X is meant to have a sustained power draw of 170W, and AM5 officially only allows 230W peak, and a single 8 pin is rated for 235W sustained, but some mobos change the default settings to allowe higher boost clocks and/or overclocking. I'm still not worried, but it's obviously cleaner if you either get a mobo with 1x 8 pin (most B650 only got 1) to go with a 1x 8 pin PSU, or mobo and PSU both with 2x 8 pin.

Setsul. 50$. 512gb nvme gen 3/4. fast and reliable.
yes i have pci-e 4.0
my usual flow chart when looking at an ssd is as followed: is it nvme? > does it have dram? is it samsung/micron?
as you can see this approach is severely flawed because i know fuck all about NAND, controllers etc

i need a drive for Premiere 23, no heavy effects or plugins, large files high bitrate 1080p/1440p. i will store absolutely nothing else on it but im kind of wary about samsung because i think they fell off significantly in terms of reliability, from the past 12 months reading honest buyer reviews they had them dying fuck knows how, and as for second hand experience i had a friend have his new 970 evo plus wear out like crazy, it was like 30% write resource capacity gone in a matter of 2 months while he wrote absolutely nothing on it, and it kept riddling with new bad blocks

i had a Micron_2200_MTFDHBA512TCK that came with my last laptop and while it was obviously faster than my dramless 240gb sata 3 bottom of the barrel phison controller drive it was still nothing to write home about, and around 80% of advertised speed

i have a store with a 980 512gb on sale, how gimped is it going to be without dram? will gen 4 improve write signficantly or improve render speed to any meaningful extent?

Easiest question first: PCIe gen only matters for bandwidth. If you've got the full 4 lanes available, then 3.0 gets up to 4 GB/s. If you want more, you need 4.0.
So it's not going to do anything for the 980, which tops out somewhere below 3 GB/s even when the SLC cache does its job. It's also terrible for sustained sequential write, tomshardware got 0.315 GB/s in their review.
If you want TLC for the endurance, DRAM for bursts and not sucking, and good sustained sequential write then I'd say Crucial P5 Plus. PCIe 4.0, tops out at 5-6 GB/s, but obviously that's all the cache, levels out around 1.8 GB/s write.
Alternatively, SK hynix Gold P31, only PCIe 3.0, so the initial burst is not nearly as impressive, only around 3 GB/s, but it can sustain 1.5 GB/s, is much more efficient, and you get a 500 TBW endurance rating at 500 GB instead of the 300 TBW everyone else seems to offer. How much truth there is to that, I don't know, but SK Hynix do build their own NAND, so they should know.

P31 en route thanks

Hey. I'm looking to buy a whole new pc, what I would use it for would be gaming (especially TF2 but also newer games), video editing, 3D rendering and game development. I play TF2 very often so for this config to be able to run it well, knowing how weird the game can be, is also high in my priorities.
I have a budget of around 2000-2300 euros. I don't think I'm going for 4k necessarily but I saw that the RX 7900 XTX was one of the best for 1440p, still hesitating but 1440p240Hz seems good for me. Appart from that, overclocking doesn't really interest me, the programs I'll use for working I'm still doubting on some but there will probably be adobe premiere and blender. Otherwhise just games, game recording programs like lawena as well. Sound dampening I don't really know to be honest, since I have no idea what to expect.
So, I did some research and I stumbled upon this list https://fr.pcpartpicker.com/user/Photonman1/saved/PMvh99 which apparently people considered to be a good list.
From what I've seen the B650 AORUS Elite AX motherboard seems good, maybe lacks a few ports though but I'm not even sure wether I want to expand that much, I don't have any plans to in the foreseeable future anyway but I guess you never know. So maybe that could be a problem, not sure. But in any case it seems well rated and not too expensive. For the cooler I can't see many reviews for it, and there is a lot of feedback about going for the peerless assassin 120 for this particular CPU, so I'm thinking of going for that. The power supply I've seen people complain about the noise it makes. So maybe the Noctua NH-D15 would be a safer bet? I also saw someone with a very similar config but the PSU being a corsair RM1000x 1000w. But this could be overkill apparently? I'm 100% going on feedback and opinions since I have 0 experience myself, so every bit of info is welcome.

pretty much any CPU from intel/amd released in the last year is able to push it to its limits because it is the best single thread performance we have had to date so dont worry about tf2 in the slightest
figure out how much juice you need for lawena, editing, rendering and game development(probably on the higher end side is a safe bet unless you are an indie platformer/2d/visual novel dev)

Ok great to hear.
Yeah I guess I'll need some power since I'm probably also gonna be toying with ML and AI, and on 3D side it could get demanding. So I guess I'll go for the RM1000x.
So the only thing I'm still unsure of is the motherboard (and the case, but that's just esthetically)

That's a bit confusing.
You're worried about the noise from the PSU so you're thinking of buying a different CPU cooler?
Anyway, yes the NH-D15 is a much better cooler. It is also significantly more expensive, but you get what you pay for.
Yes, 1000 Watt is definitely overkill.

You could go for a µATX mobo and case, a bit smaller and cheaper.

Rest looks ok, I'd say.

Thanks for the feedback.

I'm getting confused myself, I think I made a mistake. I think it was the psu having the fans make noise...not sure anymore lol.

Ok thanks. I'll think about taking either this or the thermalight peerless assassin 120 SE then.

Hm I see

The choice of motherboard I'm still kinda lost in. The one I choose does it have enough ports and slots for expanding later on? and for USB slots, 2 seems ok, but it's the lower limit, 3 would be better I guess. Also I don't have future plans of expanding in mind, but I guess just in case it wouldn't hurt to leave that possibility open? And from what I understand a micro-atx is limited in expansion and usb slots, isn't it?

Well, when in doubt check reviews to see if they mention anything like that.

It's not like it's either the Assassin 120 for 40€ for the NH-D15 for 110€. There are lots of coolers in between, though the Assassin is about as cheap as it gets for a dual tower. Not sure how good the AK620 is, but it is an option, and between that and the NH-D15 there is, for example the Dark Rock Pro 4.

Micro ATX means you lose 3 PCIe slots, down to 4, but USB ports should stay the same.
Though that specific board is extremely weird in regards to PCIe, partially because the space where most would be is blocked by some weird contraption, and partially because Gigabyte chose to be really fucking weird about it.
The full ATX variant got 3 x16 slots, one of them running at PCIe 4.0 x16, and two running at PCIe 3.0 x1 which is just baffling, because for some reason they felt the need to include one M.2 slot with PCIe 5.0 x4 (which you just get for free on any B650E board without all this weirdness) and still keep 2 M.2 slots at PCIe 4.0 x4, and another where they put the WiFi.
The µATX variant got 2 x16 slots, one PCIe 4.0 x16 (8 times as fast as the slots on the big one), one PCIe 4.0 x4, one M.2 slot PCIe 5.0 x4, one M.2 slot PCIe 4.0 x4 and one M.2 slot for the WiFi.
The gist of it is, unless you need three SSDs and three big PCIe x16 card, but are fine with two of them being connected with truly glacial speeds, that board makes no sense at all.

As for USB, they've both got 12 ports in the rear, 8 of them USB 3 or better, and headers to connect 3x USB 3 and 4x USB 2 to the front panel.

Those are the ones I see cited the most, and from the videos I saw those two stood out the most, that's why. But I've heard about AK620 and Dark Rock Pro 4 too yes.

Oh ok I think I get it. So most of the time an ATX is if you're the type of person that knows he's going to want to expand a lot, since the extra ports are not needed anymore for most people, but this one in particular is both that and weird since some of it's slots are very slow.
So then I think I'm gonna go for the MSI MAG B650 Tomahawk WiFi, seems pretty reliable for the CPU I have and doesn't seem to have those weird shenanigans associated with the other motherboard. Atx or micro-atx I'm still unsure though.
I also saw just now that the case I'm taking if I go for the ATX case includes build-in fans, so I guess I can drop the extra fans I was about to buy separately.
In any case if my choice of motherboard seems reasonable to you in relation to the rest, I'll probably order this evening or tomorrow. Once again thanks for your help and advice.

The Tomahawk is fine.
Yes, if the case already got 2 or 3 fans, you probably don't need any extra.

Just saw your post. I've been looking for all the generally considered good 1440p 144 and more Hz monitors, but it seems they are either unavailable or absurdly overpriced. So what's the wisest move here? Wait, have patience? It seems like the European market for monitors is not so great at this moment, is there a specific reason for that?

165 is the new 144. 144hz monitors for 1080/1440p is old stock of display panels somebody has a bunch of laying around, got their hands on cheaply/at a large discount(namely noname brands) or are models from 2021 and before

idk Germany seems to be doing fine as for everybody else well there was an Amazon prime day just 5 days ago maybe that played a part? dont know about other countries and stores
in general USA is the number one consumer market for computer electronics, then Germany. the reasons are pretty straight forward, large populations, powerful economies and more importantly relative real buying power. big stores are able to negotiate far better prices for things like CPUs, GPUs, motherboards, laptops, monitors and every other less expensive component hence why these products go on sale often because they are able to get rid of stock fast. prices in Germany are so good at times people from other european countries not only just buy from amazon.de directly, they buy from Mindfactory/Alternate/notebooksbilliger with the help from shipping agents that redeliver the orders to other european countries because paying 3x for shipping is still economically more sound than paying 50-200+ eur more at your local consumer/computer electronics store chains.

as for why the 240hz 1440p monitors themselves are expensive at the moment is because, well they havent been out long. full hd 240hz is very mature with 6 years worth of panels and research & development, this drives the price down for big brand names since the production is cheaper for something that is mass produced, in many cases a 240hz 1080p screen is cheaper than a bunch of 144/165hz 1080p models

that being said there are still 1440p 240/165hz monitors to be had for a half decent price just gotta know where and how to look:
240hz qhd
https://www.amazon.es/dp/B0BY8Z1DF6
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08TMH6WFC
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0BGCBZP8R (VA panel dont buy)
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B09DT8TJXY (VA curved panel dont buy)
165hz qhd
https://www.amazon.it/dp/B0BVWMSP1V
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0BVZ5Q2FW
https://www.amazon.es/dp/B07VTPKCLS
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08J4D98JB
obviously there are more options at other electronics retail stores but that is more effort than i am willing to make for this post considering you havent even built your pc yet
perhaps after you reevaluate your wallet contents after spending a staggering amount of money on a pc build you come back at a later date and we can work it out

Thanks for all the info. It's already very interesting.
I do remember some friends of mine talking about how they bought games and electronics related products from amazon.de. I also just bought some of my components from alternate, and yeah they were far cheaper than the other stores in Belgium.. Right now I'm expecting everything to arrive by next week, I'll take a look at those monitors you posted already, I hope I'll have that pc built by next week also, I'll come ask you later when it's done then. I don't really know yet how much I'm willing to give since I did spend a lot of money already. But then again I saw some people say the screen was important since it basically contains the result of all prior investments. Not sure how much I should invest in it then, I guess 500 euros would be my upper limit for now, I think that's like mid-high range for a 1440p screen if I'm not mistaken.

Ok well here I am one week later, everything is set up, I'm posting this on my new build, benchmarked and everything, it all seems to be ok.
I just need a good monitor now and I think I'll be good for a while. Still not sure wether to go for a 240 Hz or less, I'd like for it to be 240 Hz preferrably but if it's at the expense of too many other important caracteristics then I'd prefer to go for 165 Hz. My budget is 500-600 euros, I hope that will give me good options for a monitor I won't want to have replaced for a while. Can you help me out?

no but i can point you in the right direction, but before that I need to datamine you
lets establish some basic or specific features you want or need so that you dont miss one when its too late

there are no gaming capable 24/25 inch 1440p monitors so you get to choose from 27-32"
curved or not curved?
do you need a USB hub? a thunderbolt with powerdelivery for seamless laptop connection?
color accuracy?
g-sync/free sync?
some monitors have very wide, wing like stands while some have much more compact, rectangular shaped ones, is it a dealbreaker? do you have desk space or need extra space for your keyboard, maybe you play keyboard tilted 90 degrees?(implying you dont want to use a vesa mount, because in case you do this point is irrelevant)
anything i missed or you want specifically

sorry for taking so long to answer.
- I'd rather go for not curved
- I don't think I need a usb hub or a thunderbolt no. At least not that I know of, my usecases are competitive gaming, programming and development so I'm not sure if that can help for something, in any case I couldn't find a reason for having those necessarily.
- color accuracy is pretty important to me yes.
- that one is hard to know. If I go for a high Hz monitor I guess tearing shouldn't be a problem, but the stuttering could be a problem. I do have some stuttering issues on tf2 sometimes, especially on the newer recently introduced maps, where the fps can go from 250 to 150 quickly for no real reason.
But I also heard sync can add input lag, so I'm not sure. I guess It's something I wouldn't be bothered by to have as an option just in case.
- I don't have much space on my desk but my keyboard is not a problem. for the stand it really depends on the exact measurements, I have just enough space for a second screen right now so either I go for a wide screen that's almost 2 screens worth or one that can fit next to it, my current desktop being 110 cm wide so not sure even the 27 inch can fit, I tried measuring but it seems very tight for another 60 cm in diagonal screen to fit next to it. Still, in a not so distant future I intend to change my desktop so it's not that important. I think 27-28 inch will be perfect. the stand is not so important either, as long as it fits into the 20 cm space between the end of my mousepad and the end of my desktop.
I don't have anything that I want to add specifically otherwise.

Well there is no way you ergonomically fit 2 monitors on a 1m wide desk where you place your monitors so that you look straight at one(as you should), or where you dont position the second monitor at a weird angle far behind/in front of the main monitor(or just both at a weird angle). At least not without a VESA arm for 2 monitors. I've had a 100x60cm desk and 2 monitors, 24&27inches and I straight up removed the second monitor because there is no way in hell that would work unless you want the 2nd monitor in the 90° portrait position. I definitely dont see constantly having your head and neck turned for hours on end to use the main screen being comfortable.

As for fitting it within the 20cm of free space where your monitor is, probably not going to happen either if your desk is flush to the wall or if your deskmat(i assume) height exceeds 40cm, because the stands normally extend a decent bit behind the actual screen enclosure so if you have a 110x60 measurements, out of luck, maybe you have 110x75cm then its doable otherwise the stand is going on the deskpad.

good because 99% of them are VA panels and they are not suitable for color accurate work or competitive gaming

okay monitors
Alienware AW2723DF
probably the best gaming capable monitor here, can do 280hz overclocked. colours are great but is less colour accurate than LG, and is the most expensive
probably cheaper here than on amazon

for a 100 less you have ASUS VG27AQML1A while its as capable at gaming it doesnt offer color accuracy at all

for the same price you have Lenovo Legion Y27qf-30 which has way better colour accuracy and reasonable response times so its a bit worse in gaming than ASUS(though its only better by using backlight strobing so its gonna halve its brightness and sacrifice colours even more to achieve that) but way better production wise

also for the same price there is Acer Nitro XV272UX with very respectable colour accuracy close to the LG but they cheaped out on G-SYNC so while it has variable refresh rate it is not certified, I probably wouldnt care much about that
it also basically doesnt exist outside amazon

paradoxically i wouldnt reccomend the 240hz LG's because out of the 2 models they have up one is 600 eur(if you can find one in europe while msrp in the US is 499$) and the other one is 900EUR OLED

iiyama at almost 500 and aoc at 599eur were nothing special and werent worth it

as far as 165hz goes it just doesnt get better than this LG
excellent performance and colours, not to mention it goes for 315(could be had for 279 last month but we live in the present), the only thing to complain about is the fact that the stand doesnt let you swivel the screen left to right so if you want to adjust the horizontal angle you have to grab the monitor by its stand and move the entire thing to achieve the viewing angle that suits you

as always read some reviews perhaps because things that are okay with me might not apply to you, so being informed is key
one more thing, hdmi 2.0 can only do 1440p 144hz, and can only reproduce gimped 8bit so if you want to enjoy the best of your monitor use DisplayPort

Just back from vacation. Thanks for the advice.
Currently my 2 monitors are a similarly positionned as yours on the second screen, and yeah sometimes it's a little bit painful. I guess it's best I remove one, until I have a bigger desk. Well I'm not against a wall and my mouse pad is like 30 cm, so I guess it could be ok.

From what you say and what I saw online I think I'm going to go for the LG one in the end. I hesitated between that and the alienware but I'm scared about the backlight bleed issues that people report. Not sure I want to risk that. 165 Hz seems already great too, I like to game competitively but I'm not making a career out of it so it seems enough for me.
Thanks for the info, I'll bluy a displayport cable then.

https://i.imgur.com/zAD5HpJ.png