You can use any macro program to create binds with delays in them
Account Details | |
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SteamID64 | 76561198045625010 |
SteamID3 | [U:1:85359282] |
SteamID32 | STEAM_0:0:42679641 |
Country | Rainbow Nation |
Signed Up | December 14, 2012 |
Last Posted | May 22, 2017 at 10:52 PM |
Posts | 590 (0.1 per day) |
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Raw Input | 1 |
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smakersbind ALT "+forward"
bind SPACE "+back"
bind R "+jump"
bind F "+duck"
bind D "+moveleft"
bind G "+moveright"
bind H "slot1"
bind J "slot2"
bind 3 "slot3"
bind E "+reload"
bind T "voicemenu 0 2" // call medic
bind MOUSE1 "+attack2"
bind MOUSE2 "+attack"
left mouse button is alt fire, right mouse is primary fire for all classes except demo
left button primary fire, right button alt fire for demo
qwerty layout
left handed mouse
invert mouse
~5cm 360
shintaz' config is a bit weirder than mine, as was orzo's.
Lack of autoreload is the only weird thing here IMO, but im assuming you're just used to spamming reload from another game.
LiterallyAPandaAren't people freaking out a little bit too much about it? Don't they use the word "pro" pretty liberally with the highlander vs. 6s competitions anyway?
Last time it was AG's invite 6s lineup for that event, wasn't it?
obe_I have an integrated hd 4k and I barely get playable fps with an i5 3210M and 8 gigs of ram (1366x768). /shrug
Laptop CPUs suck unless you use a cooling mat, they throttle themselves since laptops get hot.
Oblivionagewell i already have 1333mhz ram from a friend (he sold me 8 gigs for 20) so i can't afford getting 1866+ even if i were to do that, i'd rather use the money in getting a gpu. Thank you though for the responses I never knew ram mattered more for integrated graphics :o
It's because GPUs use DDR5, which is much faster than DDR3, which is what your system uses. When using intergrated graphics, your intergrated graphics have to use your system memory.
frkndon't slack on RAM speed, it has a significant effect on fps when using integrated graphics. At least 1866 Mhz, recommend 2133+
bandwidth is significantly more important than cas latency in this scenario
It's only temporary, fast ram is useless once he gets a dedicated GPU and is significant more expensive than 1333/1600mhz ram. That being said, if you can get an 1866-2400mhz ram kit for only a few dollars more than 1333/1600mhz ram, it will make your intergrated graphics pick up the slack a bit more until you get your GPU.
Most people here will reccomend you buy an inexpensive portable device (tablet, chromebook, cheaper laptop) and use the rest of the money to build a desktop. Is there any reason why you couldn't do that?
Will run fine, you shouldn't dip under 120fps in 6v6 or have trouble maintaining a playable FPS in HL/Pubs
BLoodSireI've used the DA for 6 years now but b/c I have ADD I keep buying mice only to return them once I realize it is garbage conpared to the DA. I will say however I bought the DA2013 and returned that one too. You can't use legacy drivers with it, so you have to use that garbage synapse software.
I went back to me 3500. When it comes to DA's, 1800>3500>Black>2013
Why do you think the black < the 3500? The black edition felt higher quality to me and came with updated firmware
EC1 Evo is roughly the same shape as the Deathadder, and is just as accurate and precise, but doesn't require you to install razer drivers, and comes in both glossy and matte finishes.
I have a Poker II, an HHKB Pro 2, a Model M Space Saving (Tenkeyless buckling spring), and a QFR.
My favourite is probably the Poker II, which has cherry mx reds with lubed stabilizers and o-rings.
On picking a switch, here's what I said in the other keyboard thread:
Different types of switches feel and sound different.
Some switches are "tactile" meaning they have a bump you can feel when the keypress "actuates" or in other words, when the keypress is registered. MX Blues, MX Browns, MX Greens, and Buckling Spring switches are all tactile.
A subset of tactile switches are "clicky" switches. Clicky switches produce a noise when you feel the bump, so you get a mix of audible and tactile feedback when your keypress is registered, at the cost of being noisy. MX Blues, MX Greens, and Buckling Spring switches are all clicky.
Some switches are linear, which means they don't have a bump and/or click when your keystroke registers, and feel smooth all the way until your key has "bottomed out" or in other words can longer be depressed any further. These switches tend to be better for FPS games because they are easier to press in succession than tactile switches. MX Reds and MX Blacks are linear switches.
Another type of mechanical switch is called a topre switch, which combine a mechanical mechanism with a spring and switch with a cupped rubber dome, which results in a very unique feel. However, topre switches are VERY expensive, and probably not worth it if you just want a keyboard for gaming.
Finally, all types of switches will take different amounts of force to actuate, which results in you as the user having to provide more or less force for different types of switches.
MX Blacks are linear and take 60g of force to actuate, MX Reds are linear and take 45g of force to actuate, MX Blues are tactile, clicky, and take 50g of force to actuate, MX Browns are tactile and take 45g of force to actuate, MX Blues are tactile, clicky, and take 50g of force to actuate, Buckling Spring switches are tactile, clicky, and take 65g of force to actuate, MX Greens are tactile, clicky, and take 60g of force to actuate, Topre switches are weighted differently depending on the keyboard model, but can be considered a tactile switch and take anywhere from 30-55g of force to actuate.
For purely typing, I would reccomend a keyboard with MX Blues.
For purely gaming, I would reccomend a keyboard with MX Blacks or MX Reds, depending on if you have a tendancy to mispress keys often, since MX Reds are lighter and easier to hit by accident.
For a mix of typing and gaming, I would reccomend a keyboard with MX Browns.
I would not reccomend a keyboard with buckling springs, topre switches, or MX greens for someone new to mechanical keyboards, as keyboards with these switches tend to be expensive and/or hard to find.
There are also a slew of modifcations you can make to your keyboard to make it feel different as an advanced user, such as a dental band mod, or using o-rings on each switch.
A good starter mechanical keyboard available in multiple switch types is the Cooler Master CM Storm Quickfire Rapid, which can be found with MX Red, Black, Blue, and Brown switches, and is relatively inexpensive while still being fairly high quality.
I would reccomend ordering a mechanical switch sampler to see which switch you like the best before ordering a keyboard, such as one of these http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/sampler-kit-1.html.
There are lots of communities online that have a focus on mechanical keyboards, or will occasionally talk about mech keyboards, such as reddit.com/r/mechanicalkeyboards, geekhack.org, deskthority.net, 4chan.org/g/, as well as countless others.
I think I'm going to also get dishonored and fallout 3
I got terraria and skyrim with all the DLC for 23 dollars, sometimes it pays to be behind on games.