Yes. You can have either one be the same as non-stretched, but not both.

Another way of thinking of it is that default yaw keeps your mouse movements have the same angle movements (or cm/360), changing the yaw makes your mouse movements be the same number of pixels. Stretching itself doesn't change your sens, but you might like to change your sens to "counteract" the stretching. It's all personal preference which one you like more.

This obviously doesn't apply to black bars and you should always use default yaw when you're not stretched. And any fps comparisons I've seen were tossups well within margin of error, it does not matter for fps.

Only the + at the start of a command is properly replaced canceled. You need to alias it so that both -commands run. With this you'll never stop crouching without actually pressing ctrl afterwards.

This will work:

alias +crouchjump "+jump; +duck"
alias -crouchjump "-duck; -jump"
bind "space" "+crouchjump"

Or you could go more complicated such as
https://gamebanana.com/scripts/7982

Though really the only thing crouchjump scripts have going for it, that you don't need to put your pinky in an awkward position, is imo solved easier by just binding crouch to capslock

The k30 isn't mechanical.

Even when you go with their actual mechs, they have their fair share of problems (small, but plenty):

• LEDs are prone to dying or fading or discoloring quickly
  
• Non-standard bottom row means keycap replacement options are very limited
  
• Keycap quality is not good, paint-and-etch isn't necessarily bad but on thin low-quality ABS it sure is. They tend to wear/shine pretty quickly, the legends can be felt and feel like bits of dirt imo, and all this wouldn't be that bad except again, most replacement keycap sets won't fit the keyboard.
  
• Cable is way too bulky. I've heard they got better on models like the K65, but when I had a K70 it was way too stiff to even reorganize on my table, let alone carry with me somewhere. And the whole thing where they require two USB ports to use was pretty unnecessary.
  
• Excess key wobble because the backplate isn't good (don't buy their "the whole case is aluminum" advertising, it's just a regular backplate with floating key design. Keyboards with an actual aluminum case are pretty much only in the realm of enthusiasts, costing $200 and up mostly only in groupbuys). It makes the switches feel cheaper, when really the issue isn't with the switches as much as it is with the board itself.
  
• Unnecessary ping noise on key release because again, the backplate is bad
  
• The base isn't properly fit on some models, and you can tell the plastic is not that good
  
• Software is needed for a lot of the features, and not only is their software not that good imo but it also means that you're sol on linux

They're pretty unanimously recommended against by communities like r/mechanicalkeyboards or geekhack for these reasons. Really they're not as bad as they make them out to be and it'll do fine if you already own one, but they have a ton of tiny issues that other keyboards of the same price don't have.

Is there any reason for 30€ max? You can go that cheap, but they'll either be clicky (cherry blues can be bought for $35 in india, outemu blues are not uncommon but very loud) or garbage (outemu linears and tactiles are really bad, most other ultra-cheap switches are bad for everything). That's only the switches too, the rest of the keyboard's build quality / materials have a surprising impact on how nice it is too.

I'd either spend a bit more on better keyboards (magicforce68 with gateron reds / blacks is commonly recommended as the absolute cheapest linear mechanical while still being a good keyboard, at around 60€), go with outemu clickies (magicforce68 with outemu blues or pluggable tkl, to name two good ones), or spend what you were going to on an alright membrane keyboard (if you're going that cheap, imo you may as well not get a mechanical at all because it's not worth it when you're getting the cheapest stuff possible).

I have heard plenty of people buy super-cheap MechanicalEagle, Velocifire, EagleTech, or Team Wolf boards and like them more than the membranes they've had, but I've never heard anyone say they wouldn't have preferred spending the 20-30 bucks more to get a much better keyboard instead.

Paint.net doesn't preserve color when the alpha channel is 0. This causes it to bleed white edges when resized / compressed even slightly.

What I always do is just apply a black layer with alpha 1 / 255. It's basically invisible but makes it work properly.

Wiet's casting hud contest thread has some resources on it: http://www.teamfortress.tv/32052/casting-hud-design-contest#23

Basically, make your status spec panels have a red half and a blue half. Then set it up so that on red, the blue half is offscreen, and vice versa with blue getting red offscreen.

It gets more complicated from there if you want to do other things (space it from the edge with refracts, resize the health bonus cross for sideways healthbars in both directions, etc.) but that's the jist of it.

If you check out the files it becomes pretty clear that this is still definitely a hud mod (for example, compared to 7hud's hudlayout, https://www.diffchecker.com/QHhdVAjs and most of the differences are only because woolhud is using an outdated 7hud version as its base).

It's not as blatantly bad as "hey I modded this dude's hud with a few tiny changes" but imo "I modded this hud to look like someone else's private hud mod" should definitely still go in the hud mods thread.

>>> vulcan_count("Theodore reads his thesaurus at the theater")
4

Unless I'm mistaken, Vulcan's current code (when he took out " the" which should never have been there) should be fine for that, as long as capitalization is consistent and stuff like "THE QUICK BROWN FOX" never appears as a line in the text.

I would tell a later year cs student that they absolutely should rework that to better handle edge cases, but a first year non-cs student can get away with stuff like that.

Break the problem down into individual, manageable steps.

I don't know python (c#/java guy) but when you've figured out how you want to do it for each individual part, converting it into code shouldn't be that hard.

Some advice, it can be good to buddy up with people taking the course who know their shit. Even if you're just acquaintances, you can likely get some input from their solutions or advice on improving yours.

http://www.mtg.co.jp/G-PADen.htm

You can always get custom acid-etched glass sheets from local glass shops, in whatever dimensions you want. Heard quotes from others that it was up to $50 for decently sized pads, though I've never done it myself. Icemat style is just a painted bottom, shouldn't be hard to diy other options to be the same way.

No clue whatsoever, but it's not an immediate red flag since it was an eastern market thing. New old stock of them would be expected, but cheap clones are too.

Whether they have the same internals as the imo 3.0 depends on the seller. The shape is the same but the shell is different (material wise mostly). It is decently old and discontinued afaik though so I don't know about current reputable sellers.

Ambassador already has "no random critical hits" and always has.

And say what you want but if you look at it objectively, there are very few weapons that have "no random crits" without it making complete sense why they would. The list of weapons with neither random crits nor situational crits is extremely small, and most of them would be complete bullshit with random crits anyway. Despite what the "we can't remove random crits" pubber crowd would have you believe, valve is actually very good at using the no random crits attribute.

Assuming they make use of info.vdf, the destruction might be only on the hud dev's ends. I'm hoping they do some magic and make outdated huds work ingame and wherever they wouldn't cause issues and just disable the things that would break, but more likely is that it'll just automatically disable huds until they release updates using a higher info.vdf version.