Just a harmless joke bro, no need for seriousness.
Account Details | |
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SteamID64 | 76561197999725687 |
SteamID3 | [U:1:39459959] |
SteamID32 | STEAM_0:1:19729979 |
Country | Netherlands |
Signed Up | April 7, 2014 |
Last Posted | November 23, 2018 at 8:42 AM |
Posts | 677 (0.2 per day) |
Game Settings | |
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In-game Sensitivity | |
Windows Sensitivity | 6/11 |
Raw Input | 1 |
DPI |
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Resolution |
1920x1080 |
Refresh Rate |
144 |
Hardware Peripherals | |
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Mouse | |
Keyboard | |
Mousepad | |
Headphones | Sennheiser HD800 |
Monitor | Asus VG248QE |
oh no, competitive tf2 is ruined!
can't imagine it's an issue with your USB drivers. because USB mice don't need them (well they do - but the default drivers that Windows has are fine)
@OP even without the spikes, that doesn't look like very stable polling, especially 1000hz.
here's my zowie FK2 1000hz polling:
http://i.imgur.com/fUlCZJT.png
polling can be even more stable than that, but this is just to give you a reference.
seeing 125 / 250 / 333 / 500 is normal, but your MMR shows way too many 'off' numbers.
the older zowie mice reportedly had some issues with polling, but i'm not sure to what extend.
it could be a hardware issue if your AM has the 3090 in stead of the newer 3310. in that case there's not much you could do.
it could also be your motherboard being crap. or other USB devices hogging the power.
do you have other mice you could try?
also, try different CPI steps to see if that gives you different results.
basically what hpqoeu said.
typically, laser etched lasts way longer. pad-printing is generally considered the weakest type of printing.
i can imagine that Leopold uses better-than-average printing, but i think you can expect your WASD keys to start fading after a few weeks, or a few months if you're lucky.
CS 1.5 (aztec), my brother's somewhere in that tower
shit was legendary at the time
though i think my very first game online was diablo 1
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/wU9TN4CTAJ0/hqdefault.jpg
after diablo 1; CS (1.3-1.6), quake 2 and diablo 2 were by far my most played online games.
i've experienced the great age of dial-up internet connections. anyone who knows; you will never forget the sound
fade-the white legends on the keycaps do fade and i'm still < 1 month of ownership but i'm saving to buy some pbt keycaps right now so no big deal
legends fading is about how the legends are applied; legends on PBT keycaps can fade just as fast.
just saying so you can make sure that if you get a new PBT set you won't get shit legends that fade quickly :)
for example double-shot ABS legends will never fade, and pad-printed on PBT will still fade very quickly..
something to keep in mind :)
kirbyI'm looking to buy a new keyboard within the next couple months and I need suggestions. Let's go.
demands? preferences?
stuff like, full-sized? TKL? TK? switches? backlighting? etc
like this?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UREWVFVjzJQ&feature=youtu.be
it's nothing new with razer keyboards unfortunately
you said downgrade, but that mini 84 would be an upgrade
neither are great. but one isn't really any better than the other. both cut cost everywhere they can, and both overprice their products.
personally, i prefer zowie. why? no shit software, no disco lights. simple plug and play.
stuff like build quality, sensor performance etc is the same for both: not great, but not terrible.
edyLook how simple this is http://puu.sh/mJaJN/b0ea7f6aa3.jpg , it's a god send.
pretty sure that specific software is for the old 3.5G DA only?
not sure if specifically nordic, but i think the GH60, filco minila, poker and pure pro have all been released in ISO layout.
most, if not all, are discontinued however.
maybe you could find an ISO poker, and then try to get a set of nordic keycaps, separately..?
but yeah, your options are quite limited if you want ISO 60%, especially nordic layout specifically.
you could take your question to geekhack.org or deskthority.net if you're determined to find this keyboard. surely you'd find you answer there :)
you might have to search sites like ebay or check the user-to-user sale sections on the sites above. worst case scenario you will have to build something yourself.
good luck :)
jesus future, you are dumb
molehttp://i.imgur.com/LUsgfhB.jpg
this is where the magic happens
i wonder how many people realize how expensive this bunch of hardware is
not too shabby, sir
cuteteahttp://i.imgur.com/zTDUoNE.jpg
shit, i'd be so paranoid about the whole thing falling on my head
crystalsfuturehttp://s21.postimg.org/otrs38y93/new_avatar.png
what the hell is with his right hand
thumb is drawn on the wrong side
the PWM3310 is a good choice for 400 dpi because every step of 50 is native to the sensor. so for example 400, 450, 1200, 1800 etc should all work and feel just as good.
the PMW3660 has just gone public as well, so i presume that within the next few years there should be a stream of mice with this sensor. steelseries rival 700 with this sensor should be out soon.
currently, only the Logitech G303 and G502 use the 3660, but it's a very good sensor. every step of 50 is native for this sensor as well, so naturally it's a good choice if you want to use 400dpi.
a few razer mice should also be good options for 400dpi, like the DA chroma. these mice use the S3988 sensor, which (i think) also has every step of 50 native.
the "issue" with most older mice is that the 400 or 450 step is usually a processed step. this can potentially add things like delay or ripple. it's never as raw as non-processed steps, obviously.
the sensor of the G400S is a good one, but only the 800 and 4000 steps are native. using a sensor like this on 400dpi means that the mouse will throw away counts before sending the data to USB.
so it's not weird that the 450dpi step on your old mouse felt strange.
yeah, a real shame. the guy (can't remember his name) put in proper effort on these forums, communicating and listening to feedback. looked real promising until people just stopped signing up.