I would like to upgrade my CPU to something better, hitting 100% in overwatch and PUBG isn't fun ,budget is around 500 dollars (including CPU,motherboard and 16GBs ram).
Thanks mr setsul

#2432
Yeah, not the same mobo.
They don't have to be the exact same parts.
So which CPU did you decide to got with?
If it's the 1800X and you're willing to overclock you could go with the 1700 and not have to worry about a cooler.
Ignore the SSD and HDD, similar ones can be found in any shop.
Same for the mobo.

If you've decided which shop you'll use, be it alternate.dk or something else (possibly cheaper options), then I can just use that one. No price comparision site needed anymore and I don't have to worry about shipping so it's easier for me too.

#2433
Current CPU?
How many fps are you getting, how many do you want?
Is the CPU at 100% all the time or just spiking?
GPU usage?

I think I'll stick with the 1800X, though if there's no cooler available in Denmark that is good enough then of course I'd be open to giving overclocking a go with the 1700. SSD/HDD aren't a worry, only things I can't find are the memory/GPU/PSU. I don't think it would cost too much to ship those parts from the UK by the looks of it, but it would be preferable to find an alternative on alternate.dk (there are cheaper options in terms of single units, but when all units are added up and the overall price is reduced by 20% it becomes cheaper to buy from alternate.dk).
On top of that, I've worked out that the price shouldn't be that much over the price of buying everything in the UK, so I am able to upgrade the GPU to a 1080 Ti. I'm not too inclined to wait for the 12 core CPU (which I know I will regret later on haha).

currently on a i5-4460
around 100-120 on OW,60-80 on PUBG with dips as low as 30 (part on this can be blamed on the god awful optimisation of PUBG tho), aiming for 144> in OW to go with my 144hz monitor
GPU is around 70% iirc (not on the PC atm) while CPU is hitting 100%

#2435
Nah, it's just easier if I don't have to search for a cooler.
Alternate.dk it is then.
I'll stick with the H7. It's rather cheap in Denmark almost the same price as the 212 Evo, but it's much better. While the various Enermax ETS-T40 version perform pretty much the same (some 1% better, some 1% worse) and are slightly cheaper they are also taller and I don't want to limit your choice of cases.
You'll have to get the AM4 mounting kit though, ask alternate if they have it, otherwise http://www.cryorig.com/getam4.php

Here we go:
https://www.alternate.dk/AMD/Ryzen-7-1800x-3-6GHz-Boks-processor/html/product/1333130?
https://www.alternate.dk/html/product/1174912
https://www.alternate.dk/ASRock/AB350M-Pro4-Bundkort/html/product/1333840?
https://www.alternate.dk/Patriot/Viper-Elite-Series-DDR4-16GB-3000MHz-16GB-DDR4-3000Mhz-RAM-modul-Hukommelse/html/product/1304883?
https://www.alternate.dk/Samsung/850-EVO-MZ-75E250-SATA-6Gb-s-SSD-Solid-state-drev/html/product/1163757?
https://www.alternate.dk/Seagate/ST3000DM008-Harddisk/html/product/1289373?
https://www.alternate.dk/ZOTAC/GeForce-GTX-1080-Ti-AMP-Extreme-Core-Edition-Grafikkort/html/product/1350397?
https://www.alternate.dk/Corsair/CX550M-PC-str%C3%B8mforsyning/html/product/1253695?
https://www.alternate.dk/Fractal-Design/FD-CA-DEF-MINI-C-BK-W-Towerkabinet/html/product/1299897?
15158 DKK.

You have a couple of options though.
Obviously larger SSD/HDD, if you want.
There are also cheaper, but slightly slower HDDs.
https://www.alternate.dk/Intenso/3TB-3-5-Zoll-7-2k-SATA-III-64MB-3000GB-Serial-ATA-III-harddisk/html/product/1088605?
https://www.alternate.dk/Toshiba/3TB-3-5-Zoll-7-2k-SATA-6Gb-s-64MB-3000GB-Serial-ATA-III-harddisk/html/product/1026606?
https://www.alternate.dk/Toshiba/P300-3TB-3000GB-SATA-harddisk/html/product/1321249?
All 3 are identical, the difference is warranty (Toshiba vs Intenso) and between the 2 Toshibas the P300 comes in a box. That's all there is to it.
Now some people say a <300mm two fan, two slot cooler is perfectly fine for any GPU, I say fuck that. If I were to pay that much for a >250W GPU then I'd make sure that cooling will be the least of my problems. There is simply no substitute for a FAT TRIPLE FAN TRIPLE SLOT cooler. You're not going to use the shitty x16 slot (only runs at PCIe 2.0 x4, not 3.0 x16) anyway and it would hinder the GPU's air intake and the top slot is perfectly fine for a soundcard or whatever you need.
Of course you're free to choose another one. I should mention that it'll block the lower fan slot (there's 3 and only 1 fan included) in the Define Mini C, but moving the fan isn't a problem.
Which brings us to the case.
There's also the N200, which fits pretty much everything, including even larger GPUs, but while it's a good budget case it's still a budget case.
https://www.alternate.dk/Cooler-Master/N200/html/product/1066798?
If you want sound dampening like the Define Mini C, but don't need the window the Deep Silence 4 is a slightly cheaper option. https://www.alternate.dk/Nanoxia/Deep-Silence-4-Gr%C3%A5/html/product/1089170?
For the PSU sadly there's no better options immediately in stock. If you want a better PSU the G2 and other alternatives are not on alternate.dk at all and for the RM550x or RM650x you'd have to wait even longer.
https://www.alternate.dk/html/product/1227635

Feel free to ask some more questions.

#2436
Seems a bit low for OW.
We've been over this.
http://www.teamfortress.tv/39288/low-fps-problems/?page=2
Check which program is using too much of your CPU (might indeed be rainmeter), and turning that off will probably fix your problem.

PUBG is completely normal and no upgrade will fix that.
You're lucky the drops are just down to 30.

http://imagescdn.tweaktown.com/content/8/1/8189_01_playerunknowns-battlegrounds-benchmarked-cpu-gpu-war.png

Wow, that's great. Everything looks good to me, I'm happy with the storage/case so I don't think I have any need to change that. All of that will only end up costing me about £1460 (without the PSU obviously), so I think I could afford to upgrade the CPU to the i7-7820X, as it would increase things by 20%. The cost of the CPU alone only increases the price to £1583. I'm assuming the motherboard will need to be changed, even if the CPU cooler won't unless I choose to overclock, so if prices aren't too drastically different then I think it's very much affordable to do that.
As for the PSU I'll order it from the UK or something and pay for delivery.
E: I had a think about it and I know I've asked this I think twice already, but is it worth it to wait until the 1920X? I feel like it is but I need someone to confirm it for me :/

Yeah, LGA2066 mobos are a lot more expensive.
In games the 7820X would still be faster than the 1920X (same as the 1800X in that regard). For rendering the 1920X would obviously win easily.
Keep in mind that if you're going to run max settings the difference games will probably be less than 20% because the GPU becomes the limiting factor. Like this:

https://techspot-static-xjzaqowzxaoif5.stackpathdns.com/articles-info/1006/bench/CPU_01.png

Considering the price including the mobo should be similar (200$ MSRP difference, possibly cheaper mobo for the 1920X and 7820X being more expensive than it should be due to supply issues) I'd say it'd be worth the wait.

We don't know anything about actual availability yet, it might not be in stock in Denmark right after the release on 10th August. It's not quite confirmed if the 1920X will ship with with a stock cooler (rumour has it there's version with an AiO liquid cooler, but no idea if that's the 1920X or a more expensive version) and due to the size current coolers might not be compatible at all. At the very least you'll need a new mounting kit for it too.

Sidenote: For both the 7820X and 1920X microATX mobos might be hard to find, so a larger case might be necessary.
Also since both support Quad Channel replace the 2x8GB RAM with 4x4GB (or 4x8GB if you feel like it).
Fun fact: Intel loves market segmentation so the 7820X supports 128GB RAM and no ECC. The 1920X and 1950X are identical to the server versions in that regard so you get ECC support and a maximum of 1024GB RAM, because why not?

By the way if you know which part of your old pc failed you could replace that, use it until you buy the new one and then sell it. That would make waiting more bearable.

In that case I think I'll wait for the Threadripper.
On a side note, and I ask like this as I doubt I could afford it, what would it take for the current part list to be able to run 4K games? If I'm going to wait for the Threadripper, from what I've seen it will be most helpful when rendering 4K content and that sort of stuff, so I'd probably want to buy a 4K monitor (which from the looks of things wouldn't be all that expensive). But how much would I need for a possible future upgrade to 4K gaming? A second 1080 Ti or something else extreme like that? Sorry to add on another layer of questioning, just curious.

Hi Setsul, I brought all the parts you suggested and built it yesterday and the pc itself works fine but I can't connect to the internet.
I plugged my Ethernet cable in and the orange light on the pc comes on but Windows doesn't recognise my network connections and doesn't show any possible wifi connections.
I've installed all the drivers that came with the motherboard and I'm not sure what else I can do now to get it to work.

#2440
That particular 1080 Ti is faster than a Titan Xp. So you're not going to find a faster single GPU.
Obviously all games would run at 4K, but it depends on the game how well they'd run.
E.g. Witcher 3 would be fine.
https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/NVIDIA/GeForce_GTX_1080_Ti/25.html
Others you'd need to drop down to lower settings.
https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/NVIDIA/GeForce_GTX_1080_Ti/12.html
Keep in mind though that the need for AA is greatly reduced at 4K, so that already buys you bit of performance.

For a second 1080 Ti you'd need a different mobo (X370 instead of B350). Any mobo for the 1920X should support it though. The problem is that SLI needs to be supported by the game and work well to do anything.
http://www.babeltechreviews.com/gtx-1080-ti-sli-performance-25-games/3/
As you can see it doesn't make a whole lot of sense.
On top of that it's all AFR, which means the frametimes won't change at all. Basically even when SLI works perfectly and you go from 30 fps to 60 fps it still feels like 30 fps, it just looks like 60.

And don't worry, more questions mean you're more likely to get what you want/need. Kind of important to invest that time when you're about to drop 1500-2000 quid on a new pc.

#2441
It does not have wifi so it will never show wifi connections.
Did you connect the ethernet cable to the router/switch as well?
Does windows show a connection that it just doesn't recognize?
Can you ping your router/modem?

Not to worry now, I reinstalled Windows and that seemed to fix the problem.
Thankyou for all the help though, appreciate it a lot :)

So going for the 1920X, it would be possible at any time to upgrade to a 2nd 1080 Ti if it's needed? As it would just be adding another to the mobo that is compatible (and a new PSU for more power obviously).
I'm not entirely sure on what you mean on the SLI. The data seems to indicate that the SLI is either an upgrade or no different to the standard Ti, but that doesn't take away from the improvement from the say a 980 to 1080? So if there were two 1080 Ti SLIs for instance, there would be an increase in the base fps thanks to the 1080 Ti, but for games that support SLI it would increase massively? Is there anything to stop you from using a 1080 Ti and a 1080 Ti SLI together, getting the fps of two 1080 Tis + the SLI effect?
I'm also not sure how that last note works; does that mean that the appearance of the game is smoother (@60fps), but when looking around for instance, the game feels choppier (30fps)?

Yeah, PSU of course. Like I said a mobo for the 1920X would be full ATX any so you'd have plenty of slots.

SLI is the software side of multi GPU setups. If you have 2 GPUs, but SLI no enabled then one will be turned off.
If SLI is turned on, but the game does not support then you get nothing again. Still only using one GPU, 2nd one is turned off.
If SLI runs like shit then you get less fps than without it.
In most new games it'll run poorly and you'll get something between 0 and 30% more fps than with a single GPU.
If it runs well then you get 50-70%. That's it.

It used to get better as time went on and drivers improved, but since that meant SLI might actually end up being useful nVidia decided to disable it on everything below a 1070. Wouldn't want anyone to buy two cheaper GPUs that combined end up getting you the same fps as a GPU that's more than twice as expensive. So I wouldn't put much faith in nVidia spending a lot of time and effort on improving SLI scaling these days.

Yes, looks smoother, still feels exactly as choppy (or worse) as with a single GPU.

Totally anecdotal, but I used to run a single GTX 680. Wound up finding a second one for a steal a few months back, and in games like Doom 2016 my fps more than doubled (I get between 60-100fps with everything on ultra). I have no idea how that would compare to just upgrading to a 980, but it was definitely several hundred dollars cheaper. Seems to me like SLI is still a pretty acceptable, cheaper way of boosting performance if you're not looking to play the absolute newest games all the time.

680 still got decent SLI drivers.

Also you're saying that two GPUs are magically more than twice as fast as a single one.

He wants to play the absolute newest games (not even released yet), for others a single 1080 Ti would be more than enough.

So what that means is that, for example, you could turn off SLI if you knew that the game you're playing does not/performs worse with SLI? And by the sound of it it's like a software option, rather than having to manually remove a graphics card to disable SLI?
Is SLI worth buying then, if newer games perform worse with it? In that respect, how is SLI much different to just using two graphics cards? As in, if you want to run a game without SLI support at 60fps that can't reach it on just a 1080 Ti, how do you improve graphics without using SLI?
E: Back to the build, would it be possible for you to find me the motherboard and PSU to use? I want to try and work out how much of an impact the price of the mobo/CPU will be on the build so I can see if the 4K monitor is affordable.

You still don't understand.
SLI is using two GPUs.

If you have SLI turned off or a game doesn't support SLI the second GPU just turns off.

No, I don't think SLI is worth it.

If you don't get 60 fps with a 1080 Ti and the game doesn't support SLI (or just doesn't perform any better with it on) and you don't want to lower the settings then you're out of options. You can't buy a faster GPU because there is none and you can't use multiple GPUs without SLI.

1920X isn't released yet and neither are the mobos so I can't tell you the price.
For the 1800X the cheapest one on alternate.dk that supports SLI would be this one: https://www.alternate.dk/MSI/X370-GAMING-PLUS-AMD-X370-Socket-AM4-ATX-bundkort/html/product/1349661?

PSU e.g. https://www.alternate.dk/Corsair/CX850M-850W-ATX-Sort-enhed-til-str%C3%B8mforsyning-PC-str%C3%B8mforsyning/html/product/1253700? or https://www.alternate.dk/Corsair/RM750x-750W-ATX-Sort-enhed-til-str%C3%B8mforsyning-PC-str%C3%B8mforsyning/html/product/1227633? but there's quite a few options.

Alright my bad I understand now. As for the pricing, my bad again since I thought the mobo was already out there and it was just the CPU that wasn't. If the CPU is around £600 as you said previously then how much more would you expect it to be than the one for the 1800X?

The cheapest mobos are probably going to be 200-250£.
Decent B350 + 1800X = 450-500£
With the 1920X at 600-700£ that gets us a range of 300 to 500£ more. Can't pinpoint it exactly as prices are dependant on supply and demand.

Incorporating £400 to account for the 1920X/mobo + 800 DKK (happy middle ground between the two PSUs you provided) will make the final price 15407 DKK / £1859. Makes a 4K monitor less appealing since I'm not finding any on alternate.dk which would be the only situation where it wouldn't be way over budget. Guess that will have to wait for another time, but aside from that everything (1920X @ £500 would still £1940) should be under £2000.
Also, I'll need a different case to the Fractal one earlier, as the mobo will be a different size, correct? Aside from that I think I know what I'll need, now I just need to hope that the 1920X/the necessary mobo will be available on alternate.dk when they release.

For cases https://www.alternate.dk/Fractal-Design/Define-S-Window-Sort-afsk%C3%A6rmning-og-stativ-til-computer-Towerkabinet/html/product/1197535? (version without window also available) or https://www.alternate.dk/Nanoxia/Deep-Silence-3-Midi-Tower-Sort-afskærmning-og-stativ-til-computer-Towerkabinet/html/product/1149604? would work.

There's also the RAM that you need to change, but prices will probably change so there's no point looking for a kit yet.

Just post again or message me once it's released in case I forget.

Already made a decision regarding that?

Those cases are similar in price to the previous one so that's good, as for RAM, change to what? More, and if so, estimate in the price increase?
As for the previous PC, I doubt I'll get anyone interested in it (with an i5-4670K and a 760 2GB it wasn't exactly new 3 years ago). Will probably let it sit and find some obscure use for it or just give it to my mum.

4x4GB instead of 2x8GB, shouldn't really cost more. Or 4x8GB if you want it, but that will be more expensive.

Keep in mind that even not overclocked an i5-4670K should be somewhere between an i5-7400 and i5-7500. Oc'd it's faster than the 7500. If a CPU can compete with a new one that costs 200$ it's probably still worth something.
It all depends on what's broken.

Only the PSU. I had a Coolermaster Elite Power 500W, which I'm rather glad was the one that broke as from what I've read it doesn't seem to have great reviews haha. Do PSUs have to be a certain spec to fit into a build or can I just buy a similar one and put it in?

With a 760 basically >300W, 80+ Bronze and that should do it.

What if I just want to upgrade for better performance in basically most things, what's the best CPU+RAM+MB combo I can get for $400

ryzen, ryzen ryzen, ryzen, ryzen, ryzen, ryzen, ryzen. Did I mention ryzen?

R5 or R7 ???

#2458
If "basically most things" means <=4 threads then you can't. You can't afford a faster CPU + 16GB RAM + mobo.
At least 120$ for the RAM, 70-80$ for the mobo, with the 200$ left you can only get a CPU that's marginally faster. The best you can get would barely count as an upgrade.

Yes, for streaming and other highly threaded programs you can just about get an R5 1600, but it's only going to be faster in a select few games, about the same speed in a couple and slightly slower in most.

An actual upgrade would be simply getting a used i5-4670(K) or 4690(K), maybe a cooler and Z87/Z97 mobo and overclock if you can get a K version. Should be able to afford additional RAM if you've got 2 sticks right now.
Or even get an i7-4770(K)/4771/4790(K), decent single threaded boost in case of the 4790K, negligible for all others, but more multithreaded performance >4 threads.

#2459
Wrong, wrong, wrong, wrong, wrong, wrong, wrong, wrong. Did I mention wrong?
If it uses <=4 threads, which is most things, then there is no RyZen CPU that is noticably faster. Spending 400$ for no difference isn't worth it.

#2460
Marketing names are irrelevant.

I mostly play old games, but my old computer (7 years on - I named it Doris) is starting to really show its age. So it's time for an upgrade.

HOWEVER. Are there any major limitations I should look out for if I intend to hold it to windows 7 - like I said, I mostly play old games, and windows 10 can be kind of finicky with some of them. So I'll likely try to have win 10 for the new stuff, and a win 7 drive for the old stuff. Are there any major hardware limitations inherent to win 7 that I should look out for as I build that could cause that drive to be non-funcitonal within the build? Or is win7 still newish enough that companies haven't made their drivers ignore its existence?