You can just change that in your settings anytime though.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i3-8100 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor (£91.14 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: ASRock - Z370M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£99.84 @ More Computers)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£169.00 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£81.54 @ Novatech)
Storage: Seagate - BarraCuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£33.95 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Video Card (£157.20 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Cooler Master - N200 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£46.74 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: Corsair - CXM (2015) 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£48.86 @ Ebuyer)
Total: £728.27
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-03-24 21:13 GMT+0000

Should get an 860 Evo 250GB but that's not listed on pcp UK for some reason.
You can get a different case if you want.
An i3-8350K would be a bit faster and overclockable but you'd need a cooler and even without that it wouldn't be within the budget anymore.

AMD option, slightly worse <=4 threads (most games), better for >4 threads (in your case only photoshop and even then not all the time):
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2400G 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor (£129.59 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (£69.38 @ More Computers)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£169.00 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£81.54 @ Novatech)
Storage: Seagate - BarraCuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£33.95 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Video Card (£157.20 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Cooler Master - N200 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£46.74 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: Corsair - CXM (2015) 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£48.86 @ Ebuyer)
Total: £736.26
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-03-24 21:20 GMT+0000

Do i need not need a cooler for the current build you’ve given me ?

Included with both CPUs.
FYI you might have to update the BIOS on the AMD build. If you're buying it from a retailer you could ask them to do it otherwise https://support.amd.com/en-us/kb-articles/Pages/2Gen-Ryzen-AM4-System-Bootup.aspx

I'll be using the Intel build, thanks for the help

p a g i n g S e t s u l

The same guy for whom I asked you for a build previously (very happy with that one) is looking for a portable now. Not technically a build I guess, but since his budget includes peripherals I guess we can let it slide? lol

He has 1000€ (could potentially stretch to something like 1200) and is looking for maximum versatility and portability. He'd do a lot of browsing, office and pdf work, some photoshopping and probably some light gaming (not primary purpose though). I recommended the surface pro, because it's the best I can think of in terms of versatility and the touchscreen and pen are great for photoshop and it's also fairly lightweight. But I thought I'd post here in case you know some good alternatives, thanks in advance!

Portable as in a tablet?
And no, I don't care about those things.

A laptop mainly, or a tablet,as long as it can be equipped with a keyboard for typing;really,as long as it meets the criteria I mentioned it can be a cucumber with a screen for all he cares. If you're not into any of that that's fine, I think the surface is a good choice. Just wanted to ask in case you knew some obscure great value laptop or any other device that could be an alternative.

Hello,

my father has the option to buy a used company PC for my younger brother.
It has a i7-4770 @3,4GHz and 8 GB DDR3 RAM. The PC costs 150€ total.

Would you recommend getting it or should he build a PC from scratch?
Considering the parts the price seems good but my brother wants to use it for games and I doubt it could be upgraded in the future.
Thanks for any input

Well what about the rest? Case, PSU, GPU (if there is any), SSD (maybe) and HDD?
If it's a large enough case and good PSU, decent RAM speed and already dual channel then literally the only thing he'd have to do is add/replace the GPU. Not bad for 150€.
If the case is too small, the mobo doesn't have a PCIe x16 slot, the RAM and PSU are shit then all he gets for 150€ is a used CPU that isn't even faster most of the time than a new 100€ CPU.

The original advert didn't have a lot of information but it has the model name which I overlooked.
Its called HP EliteDesk 800 G1 which should be this one

https://www.cnet.com/products/hp-elitedesk-800-g1-tower-core-i7-4770-3-4-ghz-8-gb-256-gb-g6a05usaba/specs/

minus the SSD with a 1TB HDD.

So RAM, HDD and mobo should be fine if it's the tower version.
The case isn't that great, no idea about the PSU.
Overall ok for 150€. He might have to replace the case and PSU but it should be much cheaper than buying everything new.

Thanks, should be a good solution for him then. What should I look out for for the case? Just bad airflow/not enough space?

Both. Possibly weird form factor PSU.

Had a question that I wasn't sure how to phrase in a google search; I have an EVGA gtx 970, and am upgrading to an EVGA 1080, do I need to download any new specific drivers first or can the nVidia client take care of that for me?

Hi, changing some parts in my PC. Will a Corsair H100i v2 be enough to cool an overclocked i7-8700k?

What voltage

#2836
There are no specific drivers. Same nVidia drivers for all GPUs.

#2837
Depends. Might be uncoolable depending on the voltage unless you delidd it.
Also http://www.teamfortress.tv/12714/pc-build-thread/?page=19#557

hello i'm back looking for more help, decided to switch to a coffee lake instead of a AMD cpu because i think i'll get the most out of an intel cpu than a ryzen one

just like last time, i'm mostly looking for 2nd opinions since i think i got my parts picked

pcpartpicker.com/user/smessy/saved/#view=PmtGf7

(picked the mobo for a potential 8600k or 8700k in the future, although i would most likely settle wiith a 8700 nonK instead)

also another question, should i bother getting a discrete GPU rn or buy one later?
I will still buy a discrete GPU sometime after getting the rest of the pc but assuming that i have no urge to play other games besides tf2, my main "goal" is to get like 100+ fps consistent and idk if i'll get that without a discrete gpu

thanks again

Yeah none of that makes any sense.
You think you'll get more out of a 6 core in a game that doesn't even use 4.
You're paying extra for a Z mobo because you might by a K CPU later. When? In 3 months, so you just wasted 180$ on the i5-8400? In 3 years when new CPUs won't fit the socket and old CPUs that do aren't sold anymore?
Or even worse you're going to replace the 8400 with an 8700? Why?

Just for TF2 the 2400G iGPU is enough. Intel probably not (about 1/3 of the speed).
Keep in mind that a 1050 is "only" 65% faster than the 2400G too, so might not be worth it for 150$. If you plan on going with a dGPU right from the start you might as well save money and go for the 2200G (or whatever AMD's highest clocked 4 core ~100$ CPU is by the time you actually buy it) or the i3-8100 and a B360 mobo.

Or if you absolutely have to throw money at 10% more performance get the i3-8350K, a Z370 mobo and a dGPU.

And keep the SSD ffs.

I didn't pick the 8400 for the extra cores, but mostly because of the boost in performance i've seen from benchmarks, plus the 8400 and the 1500x/2400g are around the same price so

also yeah i'm def getting rid of the z mobo

like i said in my first post, i'm gonna build this pc around july so if the rumored ryzen 2 cpu come out by then, i might just stick with an AMD build.

Which benchmarks?
The 8400 just doesn't make sense because the extra cores won't do anything, the 8100 is almost as fast and much cheaper and the 8350K is faster and cheaper even if you don't overclock it.

Either way things might change a bit until July.

Okay so, an update on my previous scenario. Got my 1080 in the mail a couple days ago, took out my old 970 and put in the new 1080; only difference is that the 970 had 2 6pin power cords, and the 1080 has 2 8pin power cords. But, the two 6pin cords I was using each come with an additional +2 pin adapter, so I just plugged both in, started up my PC, got a "No signal" blank screen, even though a couple LED's lit up on the PC, none of the fans started, and I couldn't hear my HDD doing anything..So I tried removing the 1080 from my rig, hooked up a DVI cord straight to my mobo's onboard video port, and started again.

this time, the screen brought up the initial Gigabyte splash screen it usually flashes for a second, then continues t boot up However, the screen just sat their on that splash page, keyboard and mouse inputs doing nothing. What I found especially peculiar was nothing else was booted up/running, i.e. all system fans HDD, etc}, in addition the fan on my 750w Corsair PSU was doing absolutely nothing. So I was a bit confused at this point, but determined that the PSU must be to blame, so I went out to a nearby computer chain store and bought a Thermaltake 850w PSU to see if that would fix the issue. Additionally, i tried a paper clip test with the older corsair PSU with a single case fan plugged into it, and it gave the exact same results; nothing turning on except LEDs in pc, and the PSU fan never once span up or twitched.

So I hook up the 850w thermaltake PSU, using the preexisting PSU's wiring so that I didn't have to reconnect everything. This time when boots up, it initally looks like it's going to boot properly, however about 10 sec into turning my PC on, my HDD started sparking and caught fire slightly. So after blowing the fire out and immediately unplugging the power/data files to my HDD, I try booting my just my SSD that has windows 7 installed

However when I boot it up, Gigbyte's CMOS tells me there is no device capable of booting up with even though my SSD is still hooked up. At this point I become both frustrated and concerned, not only because my HDD caught fire briefly and is very likely dead, But now I'm sort of stuck in a position of, I don't really know what device is malfunctioning, or how to find out which device is malfunctioning. I'm kinda leaning towards the mobo, since it is unable to recognize 2 SSD's, one brand new, the other with Windows 7

TLDR, I need setsul second opinion please before I shell out hundreds to fix this issue

Also forgot to mention, my buiild is:
Intel Core i7-4790K @4.6GHz
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Gigabyte GA-Z97X-GAMING 7 LGA 1150
Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" SSD
HITACHI 0F10452 2.0TB SATA 3.0Gb/s 7200 RPM 32MB
EVGA 04G-2974-KR GeForce GTX 970 Superclocked 4GB -> upgrading to EVGA GTX 1080 Superclocked
NZXT Technologies PHANTOM 530 BLACK Computer Cabinet
CORSAIR RM Series RM750 750W ->swapped out for Thermaltake 850w PSU
Asus Xonar DX Sound Card
LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Ultimate SP1 (OEM) (64-bit)

You just hooked up a PSU with a different pinout to the modular from a different manufacturer and killed your HDD.
I mean it caught fire.
What do you think happened to the SSD that use the same connectors?

If you're lucky only your HDD and SSDs are dead.

I guess I didn't mention it but I didn't use the old 24pin ATX connector for the Mobo, it obviously wasn't compatible since the old I had had less pins on one side than the other. However I figured the 6+2 pci/
Peripheral/SATA connectors from my previous PSU would be compatible with my new one, is that not the case?

I'll give you a hint: Stuff caught fire.
So what do you think?

Well obviously something went wrong, but all I had connected to my hard drives were data cables running to the mobo and power cords that were the exact same as the new ones provided, I guess I don't understand how they're different

They are not the same.
https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/2702-psa-on-mixing-modular-psu-cables-dont-do-it

thank you sir, this link is very helpful

FYI you got very lucky because of the different 24 pin connector.
The ATX 4/8 pin and PCIe 6/8 pin are usually the same because let's be real here, there's not that many reasonable pinouts for half +12V, half GND (and 1/2 sense wires for the PCIe that everyone abuses for more power or just ignores completely) and even if they were different the only other option is a straight up short circuit. In that case any decent PSU will refuse to start and you should be safe. I wouldn't try it though.
However if you had been able to connect the wrong 24 pin cable then now your mobo, CPU and possibly GPU would also be dead.

PSU OEMs generally try to foolproof the cables for example by using 8 pin on the PSU side for the PCIe cables and 6 pin for the SATA/peripheral cables. However that doesn't prevent some people from shoving 6 pin connectors into 8 pin slots or using different cables (I know you just didn't want to recable everything).
The only OEM who seems to have figured out a solution is Super Flower. They use 9 pin connectors so their own cables will fit in any slot (and whatever pins aren't needed just aren't connected to the cable) and other cables won't fit at all.

I know that this doesn't help you at this point but someone else might read it and benefit.
The only thing that can help you now are backups.
I hope you've got backups.

Nah I don't have any backups(although maybe I should look into that) but I only fried $200 of equipment and all the data on those hard drives is either recoverable from other sources or unnecessary. Not a big deal, I actually have a backup 512gb SSD and 2tb hdd that I wasn't using so the $200 is a fair price to pay for the learning experience