all i want is a new gfx card so i can play the division. preferably 170-230 dollar range. anyone wanna help a brother out?
^ GTX1060
Setsul#1672
Give me an update please once he decides. Obviously if there's further questions I'll still answer those.
He's going with the third build. Thank you so much!
[quote=Setsul]#1672
Give me an update please once he decides. Obviously if there's further questions I'll still answer those.[/quote]
He's going with the third build. Thank you so much!
#1681
Budget? Does your CPU support overclocking?
#1682
RX 470. In The Division it's a bit faster than a GTX 1060 3GB and it's also a bit cheaper.
https://www.computerbase.de/2016-09/geforce-gtx-1060-3gb-test/3/
#1683
That'd be a 1060 3GB though.
Not surprised by the choice, I just hope the 1070 wasn't the only reason he decided to go with that.
Budget? Does your CPU support overclocking?
#1682
RX 470. In The Division it's a bit faster than a GTX 1060 3GB and it's also a bit cheaper.
https://www.computerbase.de/2016-09/geforce-gtx-1060-3gb-test/3/
#1683
That'd be a 1060 3GB though.
Not surprised by the choice, I just hope the 1070 wasn't the only reason he decided to go with that.
Budget is whatever the least expensive one that will work, under $300 if you need a number. My CPU supports overclocking yes
My brother has a tiny budget (around $500 aud) and wants to get a pc to play csgo and rocket league, I was thinking of recommending he get a pentium g4400 because he can just scrape into the budget with it and a rx 460. I'm just wondering if there's any reason why he shouldn't go with the pentium, I know they were pretty popular for low end gaming rigs in the past but have modern games' power demands gone beyond the point where you can get away with it? The next step up would probably be an i3-6100 but that would probably nix any chance of a dedicated graphics card for now which isn't great.
This is an example build but we're probably going to get a diff case and maybe motherboard as well, plus network card.
CPU: Intel Pentium G4400 3.3GHz Dual-Core Processor ($77.00 @ Shopping Express)
Motherboard: Asus H110M-A/M.2 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($86.90 @ Skycomp Technology)
Memory: Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($46.00 @ CPL Online)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($65.00 @ Shopping Express)
Video Card: XFX Radeon RX 460 2GB Video Card ($149.00 @ PCCaseGear)
Case: Fractal Design Core 1100 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($65.00 @ CPL Online)
Power Supply: Antec High Current Gamer 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($31.00 @ CPL Online)
Total: $519.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-22 14:09 AEST+1000
This is an example build but we're probably going to get a diff case and maybe motherboard as well, plus network card.
[spoiler][url=http://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/hKjXRG]PCPartPicker part list[/url] / [url=http://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/hKjXRG/by_merchant/]Price breakdown by merchant[/url]
[b]CPU:[/b] [url=http://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/YV7CmG/intel-cpu-bx80662g4400]Intel Pentium G4400 3.3GHz Dual-Core Processor[/url] ($77.00 @ Shopping Express)
[b]Motherboard:[/b] [url=http://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/jY98TW/asus-h110m-am2-micro-atx-lga1155-motherboard-h110m-am2]Asus H110M-A/M.2 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard[/url] ($86.90 @ Skycomp Technology)
[b]Memory:[/b] [url=http://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/vtXfrH/crucial-memory-ct2k4g4dfs8213]Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory[/url] ($46.00 @ CPL Online)
[b]Storage:[/b] [url=http://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/dCxfrH/seagate-internal-hard-drive-st1000dm003]Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive[/url] ($65.00 @ Shopping Express)
[b]Video Card:[/b] [url=http://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/NcH48d/xfx-radeon-rx-460-2gb-video-card-rx-460p2sfg5]XFX Radeon RX 460 2GB Video Card[/url] ($149.00 @ PCCaseGear)
[b]Case:[/b] [url=http://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/TkkD4D/fractal-design-case-fdcacore1100bl]Fractal Design Core 1100 MicroATX Mini Tower Case[/url] ($65.00 @ CPL Online)
[b]Power Supply:[/b] [url=http://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/CmMFf7/antec-power-supply-hcg520]Antec High Current Gamer 520W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply[/url] ($31.00 @ CPL Online)
[b]Total:[/b] $519.90
[i]Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available[/i]
[i]Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-22 14:09 AEST+1000[/i][/spoiler]
#1685
Seem weird that you'd have a -K CPU but a B75 mobo.
I don't think you can be too picky here. Any µATX Z77 board should do. Good luck finding one though.
#1686
I saw that PSU price but it was out of stock (and the shop even said EOL) and now it has been removed completely. Assume >60$ for a PSU in AUS. That'd put you at 550$ already. I don't think it's possible on that budget, you'd have to go with a 100$ GPU.
Have you looked at some used hardware though?
Seem weird that you'd have a -K CPU but a B75 mobo.
I don't think you can be too picky here. Any µATX Z77 board should do. Good luck finding one though.
#1686
I saw that PSU price but it was out of stock (and the shop even said EOL) and now it has been removed completely. Assume >60$ for a PSU in AUS. That'd put you at 550$ already. I don't think it's possible on that budget, you'd have to go with a 100$ GPU.
Have you looked at some used hardware though?
I found this would it work?
Also I need to buy a new copy of windows if I get a new mobo right? Is there anything else I need to do?
http://www.microcenter.com/product/452358/Z77_Extreme4_LGA_1155_Z77_ATX_Intel_Motherboard_-_Refurbished
Also I need to buy a new copy of windows if I get a new mobo right? Is there anything else I need to do?
check /r/hardwareswap and make a [ h] paypal [w] z77 microatx mobo and see what kind of offers you get
like it's pretty hard to brick a mobo so you'll be fine
retard formatting bc triggers something
new copy of windows is like $10 on /r/microsoftsoftwareswap for like 8.1N and then you can upgrade that to w10 on ur own if u want
like it's pretty hard to brick a mobo so you'll be fine
retard formatting bc [h] triggers something
new copy of windows is like $10 on /r/microsoftsoftwareswap for like 8.1N and then you can upgrade that to w10 on ur own if u want
Do I need a keyboard for my BIOS to boot? My computer turns on, the HDD makes noise, all the fans work, the mobo lights work, but I get zilch on my monitor. Is this because my keyboard isn't plugged in ( I don't have one right now ) or is something wrong?
#1688
I'm not sure, it's full ATX, your current mobo is micro ATX. Depends on your case. Figure out which model it is and either google it or post it here.
A used mobo would obviously be cheaper but I'm not sure if you're comfortable with that.
You should be able to reactivate windows on the new mobo. Google it.
#1690
No, you don't need a keyboard.
Did you plug the monitor into the GPU and not the mobo/iGPU? That'd be the standard mistake.
I'm not sure, it's full ATX, your current mobo is micro ATX. Depends on your case. Figure out which model it is and either google it or post it here.
A used mobo would obviously be cheaper but I'm not sure if you're comfortable with that.
You should be able to reactivate windows on the new mobo. Google it.
#1690
No, you don't need a keyboard.
Did you plug the monitor into the GPU and not the mobo/iGPU? That'd be the standard mistake.
Setsul#1690
No, you don't need a keyboard.
Did you plug the monitor into the GPU and not the mobo/iGPU? That'd be the standard mistake.
That was it! I had already tried it (I had it in the mobo at first though) but the monitor I had was dead. It works when I plug it into my TV though so thanks a bunch!
#1690
No, you don't need a keyboard.
Did you plug the monitor into the GPU and not the mobo/iGPU? That'd be the standard mistake.[/quote]
That was it! I had already tried it (I had it in the mobo at first though) but the monitor I had was dead. It works when I plug it into my TV though so thanks a bunch!
If anyone within the US would like a custom PC built to whatever budget you may have, hit my up on steam at
http://steamcommunity.com/id/ShdSteel/
I can do most anything including water cooling.
http://steamcommunity.com/id/ShdSteel/
I can do most anything including water cooling.
My hdd dieded, can you recommend me one?
1TB, under €70
1TB, under €70
I was able to find these three micro atx mobo's. Any idea which would be best?
https://www.neweggbusiness.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9B-1JW-000J-00032
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6BM35M7365
https://www.google.com/shopping/product/11961554466395809398
This was my original post about it: http://www.teamfortress.tv/post/648722/pc-build-thread
[url=1]https://www.neweggbusiness.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9B-1JW-000J-00032[/url]
[url=2]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6BM35M7365[/url]
[url=3]https://www.google.com/shopping/product/11961554466395809398
[/url]
This was my original post about it: http://www.teamfortress.tv/post/648722/pc-build-thread
#1694
Well you'll have to make a difficult choice. 1TB under 50€ or 2TB under 70€.
You should be looking for 7200rpm and 64MB Cache.
That leaves 2 candidates each: The Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 and the Toshiba P300.
The Seagate is also sold as "Seagate Desktop HDD" (mostly the retail version) or ST2000DM001 (2TB version) or ST1000DM003 (1TB version) (the bulk version).
The Toshiba P300 can also be found as bulk version, DT01ACA200 (2TB) and DT01ACA100 (1TB), however the 1TB bulk version is usually an older one with only 32MB cache. If the P300 branded version is cheaper it's a no brainer, if not check the specs.
The Seagate 2TB version also suffers from management decisions. Instead of using 2 1TB platters some versions use 3 667GB platters. Downsides are higher failure rates, higher power consumption and most importantly lower performance. There is no way to check without getting the serial number (sometimes printed on labels on the outside of the box/anti static foil) or physically checking the HDD (inferior version has a shallower indentation on the top and weighs significantly more), so if the P300 or DT01ACA200 (2TB version is safe, only 1TB bulk might be 32MB Cache) are the same price or cheaper it's a no brainer again.
tl;dr
1TB: Seagate Desktop HDD / Barracuda 7200.14 / ST1000DM003 = Toshiba P300 > Toshiba DT01ACA100
2TB: Toshiba P300 = Toshiba DT01ACA200 > Seagate Desktop HDD / Barracuda 7200.14 / ST2000DM001
Get whichever is cheapest (possibly including shipping) of the 2 better versions in the capacity you want from whatever shop you prefer.
I like HDD and know too much about them, don't question it.
Also never question HDD model numbering schemes. Any system with a seperate number for each version will make no sense and any system that makes sense will invariably have 2 HDDs with the same number but vastly different performance.
#1695
Only the ASUS P8Z77-M PRO
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6BM35M7365
is a Z77 mobo.
On both others you would not be able to overclock.
I mean no offense but I said
SetsulAny µATX Z77 board should do.
and the first time you linked a full ATX Z77 mobo, now you linked 3 µATX mobos, but 2 of those were B75.
Don't take this the wrong way but either you're not taking the time to read the specs (or just the name even) properly or you haven't really understood what I told you.
So I have to ask, to be sure: What is your current CPU?
Nice links btw, you should try them.
Well you'll have to make a difficult choice. 1TB under 50€ or 2TB under 70€.
You should be looking for 7200rpm and 64MB Cache.
That leaves 2 candidates each: The Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 and the Toshiba P300.
The Seagate is also sold as "Seagate Desktop HDD" (mostly the retail version) or ST2000DM001 (2TB version) or ST1000DM003 (1TB version) (the bulk version).
The Toshiba P300 can also be found as bulk version, DT01ACA200 (2TB) and DT01ACA100 (1TB), however the 1TB bulk version is usually an older one with only 32MB cache. If the P300 branded version is cheaper it's a no brainer, if not check the specs.
The Seagate 2TB version also suffers from management decisions. Instead of using 2 1TB platters some versions use 3 667GB platters. Downsides are higher failure rates, higher power consumption and most importantly lower performance. There is no way to check without getting the serial number (sometimes printed on labels on the outside of the box/anti static foil) or physically checking the HDD (inferior version has a shallower indentation on the top and weighs significantly more), so if the P300 or DT01ACA200 (2TB version is safe, only 1TB bulk might be 32MB Cache) are the same price or cheaper it's a no brainer again.
tl;dr
1TB: Seagate Desktop HDD / Barracuda 7200.14 / ST1000DM003 = Toshiba P300 > Toshiba DT01ACA100
2TB: Toshiba P300 = Toshiba DT01ACA200 > Seagate Desktop HDD / Barracuda 7200.14 / ST2000DM001
Get whichever is cheapest (possibly including shipping) of the 2 better versions in the capacity you want from whatever shop you prefer.
I like HDD and know too much about them, don't question it.
Also never question HDD model numbering schemes. Any system with a seperate number for each version will make no sense and any system that makes sense will invariably have 2 HDDs with the same number but vastly different performance.
#1695
Only the ASUS P8Z77-M PRO
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6BM35M7365
is a Z77 mobo.
On both others you would not be able to overclock.
I mean no offense but I said
[quote=Setsul]Any µATX Z77 board should do.[/quote]
and the first time you linked a full ATX Z77 mobo, now you linked 3 µATX mobos, but 2 of those were B75.
Don't take this the wrong way but either you're not taking the time to read the specs (or just the name even) properly or you haven't really understood what I told you.
So I have to ask, to be sure: What is your current CPU?
Nice links btw, you should try them.
My graphics card seems to be failing? Sometimes a game just freezes and my monitor goes black, it never did this before. Didn't install any driver updates or anything. I've wanted to upgrade the card for a while anyway.
PC is a Acer Predator G3620, current card is AMD Radeon HD 7700. Anyone got any suggestions for a good, compatible and affordable card that can fit in my pc? Preferably NVIDIA since I don't want to deal with AMD's shit anymore
PC is a Acer Predator G3620, current card is AMD Radeon HD 7700. Anyone got any suggestions for a good, compatible and affordable card that can fit in my pc? Preferably NVIDIA since I don't want to deal with AMD's shit anymore
#1697
So you never installed any driver updates before and now you're complaining?
1. Update drivers. Or even do a clean reinstall of the drivers. Unless you are on Windows 10 because that will fuck up any driver, AMD, nVidia, Intel, Logitech webcam drivers. Strangely even corrupt webcam drives with the webcam not even being connected will make the graphics driver crash. Glorious Windows 10.
Yes, I know you wanted to upgrade the card for a while, but hear me out: If it still works and it's just a driver problem, even if you insist on getting an nVidia cards only to get different driver problems, confirming the card works means you'll be able to sell, which means you can either save money or get an even better new card.
2. Your card is not a 7700, That's just the series.
3. Either figure out the exact card, so I now what length/power draw the new card can have. Or even better tell me which PSU (or at least the wattage) and CPU (gotta subtract that power draw) and measure the maximum lenght you could fit with a ruler.
4. I don't know what you think is "good". If we're talking performance I either need absolute terms (e.g. how much fps you want to get in a certain game on certain settings at a certain resolution) or relative terms (x times faster than your current one, in that case I need to know not just the series).
5. I don't know what you think is affordable or what you actually can afford and I really don't care. I don't need to know and I don't want to know. Just give me a budget to work with.
So you never installed any driver updates before and now you're complaining?
1. Update drivers. Or even do a clean reinstall of the drivers. Unless you are on Windows 10 because that will fuck up any driver, AMD, nVidia, Intel, Logitech webcam drivers. Strangely even corrupt webcam drives with the webcam not even being connected will make the graphics driver crash. Glorious Windows 10.
Yes, I know you wanted to upgrade the card for a while, but hear me out: If it still works and it's just a driver problem, even if you insist on getting an nVidia cards only to get different driver problems, confirming the card works means you'll be able to sell, which means you can either save money or get an even better new card.
2. Your card is not a 7700, That's just the series.
3. Either figure out the exact card, so I now what length/power draw the new card can have. Or even better tell me which PSU (or at least the wattage) and CPU (gotta subtract that power draw) and measure the maximum lenght you could fit with a ruler.
4. I don't know what you think is "good". If we're talking performance I either need absolute terms (e.g. how much fps you want to get in a certain game on certain settings at a certain resolution) or relative terms (x times faster than your current one, in that case I need to know not just the series).
5. I don't know what you think is affordable or what you actually can afford and I really don't care. I don't need to know and I don't want to know. Just give me a budget to work with.
Thanks for the detailed reply
1. What I meant was that it started failing randomly, not after a new driver update. I do update them, but yes I'm on windows 10 post anniversary update. Is the anniversary update the cause, maybe? I don't think there's a point rolling back since it gets forced after a while anyway, and changing back to 7 or 8.1 is not an option anymore.
2. What card is it, then? System Information does not does show anything more than this, neither does AMD crimson :( Any way I can find this out?
3. cpu: Intel Core i7-3770 @ 3.40 GHz, don't know the PSU but it should just be the standard one since it's prebuilt. Back of tower only says 150/230V though I suppose that's not really useful.
4. All I really want is a stable 150-160 fps or so in TF2 and CSGO on medium settings in a lower resolution like 1024x768, so nothing highend like 4k gaming or anything. I don't exactly play pc games other than those two.
5. 200-250 euros, maybe? Sorry I just have absolutely no clue about what kind of money gets what kind of card. I've never replaced a component like it in a standard prebuilt PC since I'm a pleb who's never built his own
1. What I meant was that it started failing randomly, not after a new driver update. I do update them, but yes I'm on windows 10 post anniversary update. Is the anniversary update the cause, maybe? I don't think there's a point rolling back since it gets forced after a while anyway, and changing back to 7 or 8.1 is not an option anymore.
2. What card is it, then? System Information does not does show anything more than this, neither does AMD crimson :( Any way I can find this out?
3. cpu: Intel Core i7-3770 @ 3.40 GHz, don't know the PSU but it should just be the standard one since it's prebuilt. Back of tower only says 150/230V though I suppose that's not really useful.
4. All I really want is a stable 150-160 fps or so in TF2 and CSGO on medium settings in a lower resolution like 1024x768, so nothing highend like 4k gaming or anything. I don't exactly play pc games other than those two.
5. 200-250 euros, maybe? Sorry I just have absolutely no clue about what kind of money gets what kind of card. I've never replaced a component like it in a standard prebuilt PC since I'm a pleb who's never built his own
1. Well glhf. Sometimes it will also randomly "update" to a Microsoft approved version of the gpu driver, which thanks to Microsofts approval process will actually be half a year old. And people still ask me why I won't use Windows 10.
2. Get GPU-Z, it'll tell you that and more.
3. Yeah you'll have to open the case any to check what GPU length you could fit. The wattage should be printed on the PSU somewhere.
4. You're not getting those fps in TF2 already? Just to make sure could you check the GPU usage with GPU-Z while in game? Because if it's not even close to 100% then it's not the GPU. Not sure what qualifies as medium so I'd rather just work with relative terms. How much fps are you getting right now, how much more do you want?
5. That should be more than enough.
2. Get GPU-Z, it'll tell you that and more.
3. Yeah you'll have to open the case any to check what GPU length you could fit. The wattage should be printed on the PSU somewhere.
4. You're not getting those fps in TF2 already? Just to make sure could you check the GPU usage with GPU-Z while in game? Because if it's not even close to 100% then it's not the GPU. Not sure what qualifies as medium so I'd rather just work with relative terms. How much fps are you getting right now, how much more do you want?
5. That should be more than enough.
1. rip
2. https://www.techpowerup.com/gpudb/308/radeon-hd-7770-ghz-edition
3. rip warranty if thats still applicable :D, I'll open it later, take a look and do some measurements
4. When alone in a server I'll get way more than that actually, but in hectic things like midfights it can fall to 110 or lower, same with CSGO with smokes and high player count servers, or newer maps like nuke etc. Medium as in medium in game settings for shaders and shadows etc. I want that 150-160 to be there in more intensive situations like those midfights, not just when in the spawn so to speak
5. cool beans
2. https://www.techpowerup.com/gpudb/308/radeon-hd-7770-ghz-edition
3. rip warranty if thats still applicable :D, I'll open it later, take a look and do some measurements
4. When alone in a server I'll get way more than that actually, but in hectic things like midfights it can fall to 110 or lower, same with CSGO with smokes and high player count servers, or newer maps like nuke etc. Medium as in medium in game settings for shaders and shadows etc. I want that 150-160 to be there in more intensive situations like those midfights, not just when in the spawn so to speak
5. cool beans
Setsul Should I ditch my cd drive? and get myself a ssd for my sff dell desktop?
My HDD crashed and I had to restart my computer, and it suddenly went back to normal again but I have no idea how. I have tried to turn off my pc like 3 times when it starting to be slow but it did nothing.
#1702
Are those things supposed to be related? Why would you get rid of the ODD?
#1703
I'm glad you noticed that I'm not Setlet.
S.M.A.R.T. test results?
Why do you not have any backups?
Fragmentation?
Are those things supposed to be related? Why would you get rid of the ODD?
#1703
I'm glad you noticed that I'm not Setlet.
S.M.A.R.T. test results?
Why do you not have any backups?
Fragmentation?
would ziptying mobo heatsinks back down be a decent idea? RMA'd a gigabyte board and the north bridge heatsink only had a single screw in it :/
can also go scrounge up one from an older motherboard if it isn't the best of ideas.
can also go scrounge up one from an older motherboard if it isn't the best of ideas.
Setsul#1702
Are those things supposed to be related? Why would you get rid of the ODD?
#1703
I'm glad you noticed that I'm not Setlet.
S.M.A.R.T. test results?
Why do you not have any backups?
Fragmentation?
I didnt notice i put Setlet, i just removed it because it got fixed, sorry for calling u setlet lel
Are those things supposed to be related? Why would you get rid of the ODD?
#1703
I'm glad you noticed that I'm not Setlet.
S.M.A.R.T. test results?
Why do you not have any backups?
Fragmentation?[/quote]
I didnt notice i put Setlet, i just removed it because it got fixed, sorry for calling u setlet lel
First of all thanks Setsul for helping picking parts for my computer, it is now done and it runs perfectly.
So my friend has a prebuild 550 euros desktop that he wanted to upgrade, add a GTX 980 or a 1060 and a i5-6500 so he asked me what else does he need to upgrade if he wants to make those changes, scared of saying a complete lie i turn my head back to here hoping someone can help me and him.
Here are the "specs":
GPU: AMD Radeon R7 200 Series
CPU: AMD A10-5800K APU with Radeon(tm) HD Graphics
MOBO: ASRock FM2A78M-HD
HDD: 2 TB
PSU: 700W
Thanks in advance
So my friend has a prebuild 550 euros desktop that he wanted to upgrade, add a GTX 980 or a 1060 and a i5-6500 so he asked me what else does he need to upgrade if he wants to make those changes, scared of saying a complete lie i turn my head back to here hoping someone can help me and him.
Here are the "specs":
GPU: AMD Radeon R7 200 Series
CPU: AMD A10-5800K APU with Radeon(tm) HD Graphics
MOBO: ASRock FM2A78M-HD
HDD: 2 TB
PSU: 700W
Thanks in advance
EDIT:
#1701
Talked to him on steam, waiting for more details on case and PSU.
#1705
What kind of RMA is that?
#1706
I had to take a 3 day vacation to get over it.
Oh wait, I'm still not over it.
Either way if you don't have backups by now you're going to have a bad time.
#1707
I'd recommend not getting a 6700K and 1060.
Overclocking yes/no?
How many fps on Ultra 1080p in which games? Any GPU will run them, but 5 fps is probably not enough.
#1708
Seems like he got properly ripped off.
Discrete GPU + APU? Makes no sense.
700W PSU also makes no sense, so it's either a shitty 350W PSU sold as 700W PSU or just complete bullshit to rip people off.
No idea about the case so I'll assume it's one of those terrible prebuilt cases that require a blood sacrifice just to swap an HDD.
In summary:
To get an i5-6500 he'll have to replace:
CPU (obviously)
RAM
mobo
To replace the GPU he'll have to replace the GPU obviously.
The PSU is probably a fire hazard.
That leaves the case and HDD which I assume are both utter garbage, going by the rest of the prebuilt.
Why not just sell/return the whole thing? There's really nothing worth saving.
I mean he'll spent more than the whole thing is worth and replace more parts than he'll keep. That's not really an upgrade anymore.
#1701
Talked to him on steam, waiting for more details on case and PSU.
#1705
What kind of RMA is that?
#1706
I had to take a 3 day vacation to get over it.
Oh wait, I'm still not over it.
Either way if you don't have backups by now you're going to have a bad time.
#1707
I'd recommend not getting a 6700K and 1060.
Overclocking yes/no?
How many fps on Ultra 1080p in which games? Any GPU will run them, but 5 fps is probably not enough.
#1708
Seems like he got properly ripped off.
Discrete GPU + APU? Makes no sense.
700W PSU also makes no sense, so it's either a shitty 350W PSU sold as 700W PSU or just complete bullshit to rip people off.
No idea about the case so I'll assume it's one of those terrible prebuilt cases that require a blood sacrifice just to swap an HDD.
In summary:
To get an i5-6500 he'll have to replace:
CPU (obviously)
RAM
mobo
To replace the GPU he'll have to replace the GPU obviously.
The PSU is probably a fire hazard.
That leaves the case and HDD which I assume are both utter garbage, going by the rest of the prebuilt.
Why not just sell/return the whole thing? There's really nothing worth saving.
I mean he'll spent more than the whole thing is worth and replace more parts than he'll keep. That's not really an upgrade anymore.
Setsul#1707
I'd recommend not getting a 6700K and 1060.
Overclocking yes/no?
How many fps on Ultra 1080p in which games? Any GPU will run them, but 5 fps is probably not enough.
Hey I'm the friend barcaphilip was talking about in post 1707.
I dont know how to overclock and stuff so I guess that's a no, but I might do it if I learn how to do it and there are no major downsides to it? Dont really know how overclocking works.
Ok so I wanna build a PC as good as possible for gaming on a budget around 1200-1300$ for the PC, now mind I've never built one before and dont know much about PC specs and such. Planning on playing tf2, csgo, overwatch, some new graphic heavy space shooter games being released this year like Everspace and all those kind of sci fi games. How much FPS I wanna get? Well as much as possible for the mentioned games above :D
Could you help me out with picking parts? If it was up to you, which parts would you pick to build this PC, what would you recomend? I want a DVD player in case you'd wonder that.
Oh and also, what 144 hz monitor would you recomend? Within a 250-350$ budget for the monitor
#1707
I'd recommend not getting a 6700K and 1060.
Overclocking yes/no?
How many fps on Ultra 1080p in which games? Any GPU will run them, but 5 fps is probably not enough.
[/quote]
Hey I'm the friend barcaphilip was talking about in post 1707.
I dont know how to overclock and stuff so I guess that's a no, but I might do it if I learn how to do it and there are no major downsides to it? Dont really know how overclocking works.
Ok so I wanna build a PC as good as possible for gaming on a budget around 1200-1300$ for the PC, now mind I've never built one before and dont know much about PC specs and such. Planning on playing tf2, csgo, overwatch, some new graphic heavy space shooter games being released this year like Everspace and all those kind of sci fi games. How much FPS I wanna get? Well as much as possible for the mentioned games above :D
Could you help me out with picking parts? If it was up to you, which parts would you pick to build this PC, what would you recomend? I want a DVD player in case you'd wonder that.
Oh and also, what 144 hz monitor would you recomend? Within a 250-350$ budget for the monitor
#1710
SEK are fine, I always try to use the shops that it'll actually be bought from to get the most accurate prices.
Ok, quick explanation why overclocking exists. You know that there's CPUs which are identical except for clockrates. That's because not every chip can handle the highest clockrates. However that also means if the fastet CPU Intel sells runs at 4.0 GHz then maybe only 20% actually max out at 4.0 GHz. Another 20% each could do 4.1, 4.2, 4.3 and 4.4 respectively. So people try and run their CPUs at that speed, see if it crashes and if not, hey free performance.
The other thing is at a certain frequency and voltage a CPU will consume a certain amount of power. Most of the time if you want higher frequencies you need higher voltages as well and power consumption goes through the roof. Since Intel wants to sell the CPU with 95W that's useless to them. But if you don't care about that, you can just get a better cooler, use 20% higher voltages to run it at 20% higher clockrates. Sure it might use 160W, but if you don't care it's almost free performance again.
Now some reasons why you shouldn't do it:
- It's a lot of effort. Basically you try a setting, run a stress test for 30-60 minutes, see if it crashes and then repeat with another setting. It can take days to get a good overclock.
- Intel didn't like it one bit so now they are locking all CPUs except the K versions which are identical to the non-K version of the same number, just overclockable, without a cooler and more expensive. They'll also only let you overclock with the most expensive chipset, so motherboards are more expensive too. Couple that with the fact that the CPUs don't overclock nearly as high as they used to and you're paying 100$ more for maybe 10-15% more performance.
- The most important reason is that you want to play on Ultra. That means you'll be limited by the GPU 99% of the time, not the CPU. So all that extra performance would just be money and effort for nothing. TF2 is a bit weird in that regard, but for new games it's GPU all the way.
Well that was a bit longer than expected, but trust me, it's the short version.
So that's why you shouldn't get an i7-6700K. The other thing is that the only difference between an i7 and an i5 is that the i7 can run 2 threads on each core basically at the same time. Now that's nice if you have a lot of threads that need to do work (streaming, rendering, that sort of stuff), but most games only use 3 or 4. So an i5 with it's 4 cores will get you exactly the same performance, at 2/3 of the price.
Now some more questions:
- When are you going to build it?
- Could you link me a shop or price comparision site?
For the monitor:
- Lightboost yes/no?
- G-Sync/FreeSync yes/no?
- IPS yes/no?
- Size? 24" or 27"?
I'm assuming you're fine with 1080p since barcaphillip mentioned that, but just to make sure:
- Resolution? 1080p or 1440p?
If you don't know what Lightboost, G-Sync, FreeSync or IPS are I can give you a short explanation or you can just google them.
SEK are fine, I always try to use the shops that it'll actually be bought from to get the most accurate prices.
Ok, quick explanation why overclocking exists. You know that there's CPUs which are identical except for clockrates. That's because not every chip can handle the highest clockrates. However that also means if the fastet CPU Intel sells runs at 4.0 GHz then maybe only 20% actually max out at 4.0 GHz. Another 20% each could do 4.1, 4.2, 4.3 and 4.4 respectively. So people try and run their CPUs at that speed, see if it crashes and if not, hey free performance.
The other thing is at a certain frequency and voltage a CPU will consume a certain amount of power. Most of the time if you want higher frequencies you need higher voltages as well and power consumption goes through the roof. Since Intel wants to sell the CPU with 95W that's useless to them. But if you don't care about that, you can just get a better cooler, use 20% higher voltages to run it at 20% higher clockrates. Sure it might use 160W, but if you don't care it's almost free performance again.
Now some reasons why you shouldn't do it:
- It's a lot of effort. Basically you try a setting, run a stress test for 30-60 minutes, see if it crashes and then repeat with another setting. It can take days to get a good overclock.
- Intel didn't like it one bit so now they are locking all CPUs except the K versions which are identical to the non-K version of the same number, just overclockable, without a cooler and more expensive. They'll also only let you overclock with the most expensive chipset, so motherboards are more expensive too. Couple that with the fact that the CPUs don't overclock nearly as high as they used to and you're paying 100$ more for maybe 10-15% more performance.
- The most important reason is that you want to play on Ultra. That means you'll be limited by the GPU 99% of the time, not the CPU. So all that extra performance would just be money and effort for nothing. TF2 is a bit weird in that regard, but for new games it's GPU all the way.
Well that was a bit longer than expected, but trust me, it's the short version.
So that's why you shouldn't get an i7-6700[b]K[/b]. The other thing is that the only difference between an i7 and an i5 is that the i7 can run 2 threads on each core basically at the same time. Now that's nice if you have a lot of threads that need to do work (streaming, rendering, that sort of stuff), but most games only use 3 or 4. So an i5 with it's 4 cores will get you exactly the same performance, at 2/3 of the price.
Now some more questions:
- When are you going to build it?
- Could you link me a shop or price comparision site?
For the monitor:
- Lightboost yes/no?
- G-Sync/FreeSync yes/no?
- IPS yes/no?
- Size? 24" or 27"?
I'm assuming you're fine with 1080p since barcaphillip mentioned that, but just to make sure:
- Resolution? 1080p or 1440p?
If you don't know what Lightboost, G-Sync, FreeSync or IPS are I can give you a short explanation or you can just google them.