yup, I put 3.0 feet on everything and dont give a fuck. make it fit somehow

my puretrak talent is so worn out its ridiculous.
surface is worn out, all 4 sides are peeled cause they don't stitch the edges. it is taped back together.
have you tried your pad vs a brand new one. cause I'd eat my hat if it has the same glide after 3 years of use.

it takes years to wear out a 1.2mm mouse skate on a hard pad in my experience.
something like the stock zowie ones with 0.1mm tolerance before the mouse scrapes on the pad and they are kind of soft might wear out fast I guess.

I'm not saying hard pads are better but mouse feet wearing out is kind of a bs reason for hating them. takes 30 seconds to change them, if they even wear out in the first place, and I have like 100 mouse feet right here. its such a non issue

a set of new mouse feet cost 50c to $5. and certain types take forever to wear out.
with cloth the mousepad wears out instead of the feet, and that costs $15-45 to replace

to clean a hard mousepad you just wipe it with a cloth and some soap and dry it with a towel or put it in the dishwasher (depending on the type)
cloth mousepad isn't any easier, you have to scrub the shit out of it or put it in the washing machine and let it air dry

I don't get it

the 3.0 feet won't fit the aurora.
ms-2.0 feet (hyperglides) or logitech (puretrak hd) may fit but I don't really know I don't have an aurora.
puretrak HD feet would be faster than the aurora feet pretty much guaranteed (not always desirable though)

the tape is just being careful. the vice in my shop is a block of metal that looks like its been through a war so its pretty good at scratching things. I don't see the problem it takes like 10 seconds to tape it up.

ok so that makes more sense, but whats the logic for the bottom over the top in your pic?

name it autoexec.cfg

or make a file called autoexec.cfg, leave it blank except the one line which says
exec yourconfigname.cfg

the second way is better vs malicious admins.

its because of the low lift off distance from zowies custom lens

the qck is one of the better pads for tracking with low lod mice, so changing mousepad probably won't fix it.
a black pad with harder base is the only thing that might be better

really the problem is the mouse, you can mod the mouse to remove the custom lens part.

when you open the mouse, take out the lens and you will see its molded in two parts. the small part is the custom piece zowie added, essentially a lens filter. pry it off with a small screw driver, put the main part of the lens back in and reassemble the mouse.
the excess light can be deflected by taping a strip of aluminum foil on the bottom of the mouse behind the lens opening and pushing it down into the opening (this part is not strictly necessary, but it is better)

the lens filter just makes it harder for light to pass through, to give a lower lift off distance.
its making the sensor shittier so they can claim 1mm lod
http://www.overclock.net/t/1351759/zowie-fk/220#post_19358510

if you're scared of cleaning the lens then idk about this mod. its pretty easy though.
there's literally nothing to be scared about with opening a mouse.

its just to stop the metal vice scratching stuff. any tape will do but electrical tape but is probably the best.

http://www5.pcmag.com/media/images/324515-intel-haswell.jpg
I just meant the dots at the top. so those mostly on-package inductors that are part of the voltage regulator then

face that towards the hammer? that's odd because all the tutorials I've seen face it away..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_rji1Nx5qM&t=1m50s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8SFh4LA_byE&t=44s

Just to be clear by 'the inductors facing away from the hammer' I mean the arrow would be the side which you strike as opposed to the inductor side.

I'm obviously not understanding something, how can the inductors hit the lid if you face them away from the hammer? They are beyond the lid and just fly off into air.

and yeah I know the lid is called an IHS. I guess if I don't brick the chip from delidding but something else after its delidded then maybe they will warranty it. I think the one I heard about was bricked with a razor and intel wouldn't replace it. anyway since they should replace it my risk is reduced. I doubt I'll break it in the process of delidding, seems easy enough, I'll probably just do it off the bat

There was also a hair dryer method to melt the glue then just pull it apart. not sure how well it works and if it would be better.

well hard pads tend to have less friction, be less comfortable, more expensive and or smaller, and more durable.

I've seen a lot of people just assume the lowest friction is the best and it's what they want. I think you need a balance.
being a good aimer is often about stopping the mouse or holding it steady which can be surprisingly difficult with the lowest friction setup possible. how much friction is perfect also depends on your aim style/the game and stuff

but anyway for low friction I'd put it in 3 categories

-classic hard pad (there's like a million, func 1030, corepad)
-glass pad (icemat, cutting board) - lasts forever, can have tracking issues depending on mouse and the pad.
-hybrid cloth (zowie g-tf, razer control, artisan shiden/shidenkai mid -hybrid glass pad)

mouse feet are just as important in overall friction though. fastest to slowest:
puretrak HD > hyperglides > stock teflon, ebay teflon feet > puretrak perfectglide, stock plastic

I don't really have a recommendation, most hard pads are very similar. I guess I'll try in each category:
hardpad: qpad heaton XL is my favorite but goodluck finding one. same for steelseries sx. func 1030 maybe, its a classic. xtrac hammer (big, cheap, square instead of retarded-hard-pad-shaped aka cant-rocket-jump-unless-I-put-the-pad-upside-down)
glass: vance industries frosted glass cutting board http://www.vanceind.com/15x12clearelitetemperedglasscuttingboard-1.aspx
hybrid: zowie g-tf rough is what I use. speed version is very similar. solid color, stiched edges, waterproof, cloth xl sized

I should be fine with the delidding, as far as I understand it - tape up my vice grip with some electrical tape, clamp the lid part of the cpu in securely with the voltage regulator facing away, tape the chip loosely to the vice so it doesn't fly away, hit the chip with a block of wood and a hammer till it pops off. use a credit card to clean off the glue, wipe off the thermal paste and clean with alcohol, apply the liquid metal to the chip (spreading it manually), put it in the mobo and clamp the lid on.
I read intel won't replace your cpu if its delidded (I guess you can glue it back together and hope they don't notice?)

I don't mind the color of noctua stuff. by itself. It just looks horrible with other things cause it doesn't match at all. but yeah I don't care really.

I didn't really see anything that looked better for z97. I'll probly send the mail in rebate anyway (since its $30 :/)
and yeah that is a mistake my bad. I got the same ram in CAS 9 :O

I know the 4g and G1 are the best, you think they worth $30-40 over the other ones though?

I never like entire albums, so the only ones I can think of are old now

Evanescence - Origin (a lot better than fallen imo)
God Module - Viscera
Tycho - Dive

14.1 cs
10.2 quake vq3
5.8 tf2 (main soldier)

:/

zowie g-tf rough > g-tf speed > steelseries qck heavy > razer goliathus speed > puretrak talent > steelseries qck+
thats my opinion, having owned all of them.

in terms of friction from fastest pad to slowest it would be gt-f rough, g-tf speed, goliathus speed, puretrak talent, qck+/ qck heavy

its very close between the goliathus speed and the heavy (depends on your aiming style)
the solid color of the heavy is better than the dumb graphics on razer pads tracking wise usually
goliathus control could be good (its lower friction than speed, and supposedly lasts longer) but I haven't personally tried it

theres no reason to use a qck+ when you can get the qck heavy.

in a game where headshots matter so much, being able to randomly juke them by spamming your crouch button is pretty broken. its bullshit rng. theres times when I see the guy start to uncrouch (or just know its going to happen) I'm already aiming above him, and I shoot and it hits the body. its like the hitbox instantly snaps to the full height. or the retards that buy armor glock on pistol round and spam crouch vs usp while body shotting/spamming bullets everywhere. I really think its a bad mechanic.. as for the fatigue its just annoying and not very effective at stopping abuse.

I prefer the 1.6 version where you have to commit to a spray. you get better spraydowns from increased accuracy, but its more risky to go into a spray. and no bs crouch spam mid fight. the mini jumps from crouching arecool too

this video sums it up
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUT7zY1Do4U

and yeah that awper is chrisJ from mouz and hes fucked

are we trying to emulate 1.6?
cause its going to take a lot more than some awp changes, they should start with the crouch mechanic (cs 1.6 was very intelligently designed in that regard, csgo is not)

the awp feels nothing like 1.6
if they decided to leave the awp how it is now (fix the walk acceleration bs) and add 1.6 quickscoping I'd be fine with that. I'm not even mad cause the awp is weak. It just feels shitty and not fun to play with. the closest thing resembling skill is quickscoping but not actually quickscoping but more like a medium quickscope. how dumb is that lets be honest?

add quickscoping, add a crosshair (since you can't stop people using it anyway), increase the hitbox headshot size slightly, make spraying more accurate while crouched, make it take time to crouch and uncrouch like 1.6, fix the jumping hitbox models, make mm 128 tick, make bhopping/movement better, and the game would actually be good/fun